Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 5 - Around Padum in Karsha, Stongdey and Zangla

Yesterday, after the long, arduous and the most beautiful journey of my lifetime, we had reached Padum and it only seemed to welcome us more, with an amazing adventure filled night hike and a jaw dropping galaxy view. What we weren’t aware of then, was that electricity is available only for a short four hours a day. It wouldn’t have mattered much to our exhausted bodies which had already spread itself onto the warmth of the mattresses.

After a well rested night, we woke up pretty much after the sun was out bright and sparkling. Attempting to charge our phones made us recollect that electricity is available only for a very short duration. If you think, life must be really tough without electricity; you will be in for a surprise.  Life is very much in harmony with nature and people are content with their little or miniscule possessions.

Enjoying a lovely homemade spread, we looked into the recommendations from locals and decided to spend this day in the nearby monasteries and with the locals around it. Having no means of transportation with us, our best attempt was to hire a taxi to take the four of us around the monasteries and the villages en route. Dawa helped us with the same as he was resting for the day.

The small white patch is the Karsha monastery

After a short ride, beyond Padum market, a beautiful view of Karsha monastery awaited us. The gompa was perched beautifully atop a rugged hill with its whitewashed structures arranged so majestically on the mountain walls. Tar roads led up to the entry gate of the monastery, from where one has to hike up the narrow cemented pathway that passes through houses and quaint gardens. The climb was steep but every inch of it offered something of delight. We happened to see a few foreigners staying in the houses along with the lamas. A couple of them were teaching at the schools in the valley below and one at Karsha itself.

Further hike up the narrow tree lined pathway brought us to the entrance of the two storied monastery. At the central courtyard a few lamas were busy with their chores. An elderly lama was around and was very pleased to see visitors. He signaled to us that the roof had collapsed earlier and so the restoration work has been ongoing for quite some time now. He offered to walk us around willingly, showed us the restoration work in progress and briefly spoke about origins and current state of the monastery.

Once inside, we spent a lot of time in silence, observing a few artists at work, creating and preserving the beautiful wall paintings that very urgently needed restoration. One of the artists, volunteering his time here, gave us his insights to the paintings in hushed tones, so as to not disturb the peace of the environment and the lamas. He mentioned of staying in the monastery for the last six months and highlighted the urgency to finish work here before the harsh winters arrive.

Within the prayer hall we observed a beautiful throne reserved for the head lama. Nearby, there were shrines housing numerous statues of Buddha. There was so much calm and peace felt inside that we could stand watching the day unfold, till our legs fell.

View from the rooftop of Karsha monastery

After observing the murals and other artifacts, we moved outside to what was left of the collapsed roof, from where one could have stunning views of the village and valley below. I must have stood there for long, as I realized that it was just me up there while the others had alighted already.

Valley and mountain view from the monastery entrance

As I took a few steps down I could see the others and hoped to catch up with them once completely below. I alighted and walked through the open courtyard where the lamas around looked up for a brief moment and bent back to their chores. Further ahead, there was still no sign of the others or the elderly lama who had accompanied us.

Wondering where they may have vanished, I started to look in the direction from where I heard hushed voices and two smiling faces of kids emerged. We couldn’t talk due to language barriers but connected so beautifully through our hearts. They were curious about my whereabouts and I was about them. Through few signs, we seemed to agree to capture our moment together in a photo. Their smiling faces are etched forever in my memory. An innocent, pure and yet a strange love has filled me that day in Karsha.

My little friends at Karsha

Hearing the giggles that turned into loud laughter, the elderly lama appeared in front of us. He held them both together to his sides and they appeared to be very happy together. My curiosity got triggered and upon inquiry, I was told that kids as old as one year are sometimes left in the care of the monasteries. Poverty seems to be the main cause and the inability to care for their children pushes parents to leave their kids with the monasteries, which educate them up to 8^th and/or 10^th. Beyond which, kids have the choice to stay with the monasteries and continue their studies to become a monk or to pursue any other field of their interest.

They may not have all the worldly possessions, but they are the most happiest and pure I have seen so far. Evidently, every moment in Zanskar started to become precious for me. Bidding adieus, I walked down to the taxi, naturally believing that I am be the last one up here, while the others had already reached the taxi. Well, I was wrong; they hadn’t and must still be up somewhere. I once again climbed my way up the cemented pathway. Midway I was invited for food and at the same time I spotted my husband and friends alighting. Thanking for the offer of food, I looked at my companions. They jumped on me, on why I hadn’t accompanied them to the monastery school which had lovely kids of all ages in the classroom. Well, I had my share of education and love from the two kids, who I met. Apparently they had come out of the same classroom that I seemed to have missed.

Feeling happy and light in heart, we climbed down together, sat on a stone bench and watched the majestic views of the valley surrounded by the mountains. We met a few riders from Nagpur and exchanged pleasantries. On our way back, we offered ride to a foreigner, who, like most of the travelers in Padum, was walking from Karsha to Padum. He was thankful for the lift and offered us his share of wisdom on staying longer in Padum. He apparently is staying in the monastery teaching at a local school and helping build it as well.

We headed back to our guest room for lunch. Post lunch, our plans were to visit Stongdey Monastery, Zangla village and the nunnery.  Post an early lunch we had a quick tour around the town, including the Phodong, Dalai Lama’s guest house, that we could see from outside.

On the way up to Stongdey

Stongdey Monastery is easily a 3 to 4 hour hike from Padum. Thanks to our taxi it took us a little less than an hour to reach there. The roads were in bad shape, as the recent floods had washed off a bridge and most parts of the roads adjacent to the river. Also, the ongoing road construction that will provide direct connectivity to Leh and Darcha added to further delay.

The monastery itself is nestled on a high rocky outcrop and offers stunning views of the village and valley below. On our ascent, we met an old man who was carrying wooden logs that appeared too heavy for his tiny frame. He was gathering woods to his home and we immediately offered to help which he didn’t refuse. All this communication happened in sign language only. Helping him made me feel very happy and I understood that my happiness lies in the happiness of others. Isn’t this what my husband tells me often (to help others)? I guess it's okay to listen to your husband once in a while.

View of the village and valley from Stongdey Monastery

As we entered the monastery the main temple was closed due to a conference that was in progress. Everyone from the monastery was involved in it and so we had to wait a while for the same to be over. This gave us opportunity to go around the monastery and enjoy the spectacular views of the mountains around the valley. A group of men and women along with the monks gathered together for photo, post the conference.

Panoramic view of the valley from Stongdey monastery

We were informed later that the conference was being held with most of the monasteries in this region, in view of creating awareness for conservation of snow leopards. A woman from the NGO, informed us that snow leopards usually reach to these monasteries in search of food and the monasteries at times offer them food. Their mission is to instruct the monks on what and how to offer as well as inform them of the sightings. After helping them with their group photograph, we entered the temple only to be amazed by the gorgeous paintings adorning its interior walls.

Stongdey Monastery

A small group of kids who were staying in this monastery appeared diffident than their counterparts in Karsha. Some were friendly and came together for a photo, on request of my husband, who seemed to connect so easily with them. After sharing the dose of toffees and chocolates, we left Stongdey feeling grateful for our blessings.

Zanskari kids studying at Stongdey

As we exited, we had a very funny moment. Our friends had moved ahead to the taxi and we took a moment to soak in the enchanting beauty of the landscape. We decided to have our photo clicked here and needed someone to take it for us. As we saw a monk walking our way, we showed him signs asking him to take a photo of us. He smiled acknowledging and came stood next to me posing to the camera. My husband clicked a photo nevertheless understanding the miscommunication and brought the camera to him showing signs once again to take our photo. This time around, as I had stepped aside, he stood there with my husband, smiling for the camera. I had no choice but to oblige and clicked their photo together. After he left, we had to get our selfie, which didn't offer a great view of the landscape but left an everlasting memory of this incident. 

Further ahead, we went to Zangla fort, (which is nothing but in ruins comprising of huge rocks) Zangla village and the Byangchub Choling Zangla Nunnery, which was at the end of the road. We encountered a couple of school buses enroute. Kids were being picked up from Zangla village to study in the schools at Padum. I was very happy for this bus facility; as otherwise, they would end up walking this distance to learn.

At the nunnery, there was a small group of friendly woman including a 3 year old kid. One, took us into the temple which is also their prayer hall where they recite every morning and evening. They invited us for a tea but we politely refused, appreciating their hospitality and offered them the remaining chocolates.

I came to know that the kid is staying in the care of her aunt who is a nun here, as her own parents, are busy in their fields during these summer months, in preparation for the winter. The nuns were a mixed age group here and coexisted peacefully. Their central kitchen is also their living room and the conditions here aren’t that great, yet there were beautiful smiles on each face. There is absolute peace and bliss in each of them and it seemed to catch upon us too. 

I found the below beautiful saying from Dalai Lama inside their temple and wondered how this world could be if each of us followed it in the least possible way.

We spent an evening watching the villagers, going about their chores. They weren’t intimidated by our presence but rather found it funny that we were watching them. Wherever we looked, smiles and happy faces is all we could see. There is so much to learn from them and there was such less time. We reached our guest room as the natural light started dwindling for the day, thankful for a very memorable day that will remain with us for many years to come.

Zangla village seen from a distance

Back at our guest house, we kept mostly to ourselves and it felt very good, as we were filled with happy emotions from our day. I remembered to keep our phones and power banks on charge while the electricity was on. And while at it, I wondered how Padum will be a few years from now, especially after it is connected by road with Leh and Darcha. Will the charm and innocence of these villages change? Only time can answer to this. One thing I am sure of is that it wouldn’t be anymore the remotest village of this region. 

As we settled back in our rooms after dinner, I had mixed feelings about our travel here. While I fell in love with Zanskar's landscape, culture, its remoteness and its warm people, I also fell in love with the simplicity and humbleness that they taught me even without uttering a word. I truly began to appreciate the small things and comforts in life including the basic necessity such as electricity. For me, the people of Zanskar, who have learnt to live in union with nature will always have a special place in my heart.  

Some useful tips:

1. Carry loads of chocolates to distribute to the kids you will meet on your way. Distributing these will make you and the receiver happy.

2. If you plan to help these kids, you could opt to donate money to the monastery or you could carry note books, pens, pencils and books for the kids. They absolutely love these gifts.

3. Choose to talk to locals in the sign language and am sure you will learn something new even without uttering any words.

My first cycle ride for 30+ kms

It is not until we moved into Delhi my interest in cycling got rekindled. I guess all the cyclists around Raj Path, India Gate and most of the large parks and gardens around this mega city have somehow managed to light the spark in me after all these years. Not to forget my biggest inspiration being my husband who rides to work mostly.

It was sheer enthusiasm and the need to do pick up a sport with my beloved that got me cycling. Not that I hate it, I actually love cycling. I have actually cycled all my school years, though it was for a mere 4 km distance one way. Well post those days, I haven’t touched a bicycle, thanks to me moving into newer cities, working and travelling most of my waking hours in the last decade.

My maiden longer cycling distance started on an inauspicious day, just like that. My husband and I were awake at 5 am on a Sunday and decided to take off for as long as I could manage to ride without pain or discomfort.

A word of caution to those who want to attempt cycling after decades, DO NOT START OFF WITHOUT ANY PREP, like I did. Your enthusiasm will mask the pain and push you to kick in all your energy into the pedals thus taking you a longer distance from your start point which in my case was my home.

Trying a new bike with 24 gears, gave me more verve and I was zipping past my husband on an all too familiar route. He was baffled; all these months of him riding to work and here I am on my day one without any prep racing ahead like a pro. He thought I was a natural and kept encouraging me to go ahead. Before I realized we had crossed 10 kms already and phew, I thought I wouldn’t even make 10 kms both ways.

I kept pushing till I reached a resting place near India Gate and I called it enough for one way. To my surprise we had covered 15+ kms in less than an hour. It only means that I would end up doing a 30+ kms ride in a total of 2 hours including traffic. Wow, that is MASSIVE for me. I never believed I would be able to accomplish this.

With a 30 minute break we decided to head back home before the Sun is out harsh as it usually is in these summer months. On our return journey we decided to swap cycles. I now rode my husband’s Fantom 21 gear MTB while he rode the 24 gear Schwinn city bike that I rode on earlier. What a massive change in riding experience for the both of us.

Frame: The frames are different both in size and metal. Actually Fantom was bought considering me so it was smaller while Schwinn is owned by our neighbor and so had a bigger frame.

Weight: Fantom was naturally heavier than Schwinn

Gear Shifting: Smooth gear shifting on both the bikes

Ease of Riding: I am no expert on bikes but I could certainly vouch that riding Schwinn was like a breeze

Some 5 kms down I realized my energy level was dipping down and the ride was getting tougher. With my husband continuously motivating me I managed to push forward as much as I could but I was slowing him down.

To add to this, the traffic at 8 am on Sunday though not heavy was not comforting either. Also, a steep gradient on our way back home was killing that little bit of energy in me pushing me to take a quick break.

Splashing water on my face and quenching my thirst a little bit, I watched people zipping past us in their vehicles and wondered, why I cycled this long a distance, after almost two decades of no cycling at all. I should have started out with smaller distances, I thought, but then I knew, I am not someone who takes on easy tasks. I just love challenges and this one though, wasn’t any challenge to start off, had somehow become one now: A challenge to cycle a distance of 30+kms in roughly about two hours.

A couple of old men cycling in this gradient, slow but steady, in their non gear cycle, was inspiration enough for me to get going ahead. Like the saying “When the going gets tough, the tough get going” I pushed myself to peddle through the gradient that somehow seemed never ending. It took a little longer but I nailed it finally. Oh, what a relief now, that I could cycle smoothly to reach home, after a fantastic riding experience.

I have to mention that Schwinn was easily a plus on the riding comfort and that probably could explain why I was zipping past my husband on my onward journey. Fantom though a great bike wasn’t giving the riding comfort expected out of it. I could never understand, what could be so different in these bikes, that there is so much of a difference, in the riding comfort. 

The one thing I was certain of, irrespective of the brand, is that, I could cycle longer distances with a little practice.  

Some helpful tips:

If intending to begin cycling, please do follow these small things that go a long way in building your stamina.

1. Begin with shorter distances to start off.

2. Give enough time for both warm up and cool down.

3. Work on strengthening exercises for your limbs.

4. Keep your cool and enjoy every bit of the ride, rain or shine.

Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 4 - Kargil to Padum via Suru and Zanskar Valley viewing Penzi La Top and Drang Drung Glacier

It was a pleasant morning and I woke up to the cold breeze seeping through the crevices in the window. It was already 4 am and there was half hour left for Dawa, our driver to reach here. Braving the cold morning, we showered (thanks to the hot water) and packed, getting ready for an incredible journey.

Around 4.30 am, we left Kargil with the accompaniment of moonlight. The sky was studded with stars so bright that this place looked ever so beautiful. The pitch black of the early morning added more beauty to the starlit sky. The only noise apart from our Sumo was that of the crackling water. I could sense that a river was nearby and wished to see it. Dawa, acknowledged that Suru river is running parallel to the road. Apparently, it would be accompanying us for most part of the journey into the Suru Valley, so I couldn't miss it even if I wanted to.

At the break of dawn, Suru river was visible. I noticed that we were way out of Kargil and entered Suru Valley already. Surprisingly for this altitude, Suru river keeps the valley a lush green. I must admit that this is the greenest valley in the Ladakh region. Vegetation here ensures people were kept busy in the fields throughout summer.

Somewhere in the Suru Valley, on our return

A couple of hours had passed by now and we entered Sankhoo village, a beautiful lush green hamlet, offering breathtaking views. It is roughly 40 kms away from Kargil and given the early morning hours, people were either waking up, or were busy with their daily routine. Looking at their attire, it is easily understood that it is predominantly a Muslim village. We later learnt from the locals that villages up to Parakachik are predominantly occupied by Muslims.


There were a few shops in line at a particular stretch of the road and one can easily guess that it is the market area of this village. Dawa mentioned that this is the first main village in Suru Valley. Within a minute we had crossed the market and were now surrounded by mountains yet again. This village is picturesque at its best. Little wonder then that it is the most sought after picnic spot for the locals. The rich flora and fauna, beautiful village people and the pristine river is just a leaf out of the book called paradise.

Mentally, the four of us were prepared for a very long back breaking journey. Little did we know that it will also become an awe inspiring one. We crossed a few tiny villages en route and each looked serene. At a juncture where the roads split up to go to Panikhar and Rangdum and beyond, there was a check post. We made a pit stop here for entry of the vehicle details. This gave me the opportunity to jump out and breathe in the cold morning air. Sun was slowly coming up now and we could spot the twin peaks of Nun and Kun in the distance. It is a wonder that one is always covered in snow while the other isn’t so much. The snow capped peaks glistened to first rays of the sun weaving magic to onlookers. Take a peek.

View of Nun and Kun from the check-post

Waving at the few village folk on their way up to usual business, we left for Panikhar village, choosing the path leading downwards. It welcomed us with an amazing view of the Nun and Kun peaks. I am informed later by a local that it serves as a base for many trekkers seeking to climb the peaks of Suru Valley. It is yet another beautiful village with small houses, village folk and kids playing in the open.

Distant view of a village in Suru Valley

As breakfast was arranged for us in Parakachik, we continued our journey. Parakachik is a small village but then it would also be the last one before Rangdum, which is mid way to Padum. We took our first long break here after a few hours of travelling. Till that check-post tar roads were present and the ride was pleasant and comfortable. From then on, forget tarmac, there were only mountain roads. It meant a roller coaster ride is awaiting us for the rest of the day. After enjoying our breakfast and watching the river flowing through the valley, we decided to move on.

Watching Suru River

Locals suggested an alternate route that would save us going back all the way to the check-post to catch the other road that led up the mountain. Dawa was initially hesitant to take this route, as he hadn't been through it, in a very long time. He wasn't aware of its status and that wasn't comforting to him. Also, choosing it would mean, an additional 7 kms of pretty bad roads. Honestly who cares about the distance when the view is magnificent. With little persuasion, he took this route and we were a happy bunch after all. 

Lonesome in the long roads of valley

See the thing about going to Padum has multiple payoffs; one, it is a least explored place thanks to the high altitude treacherous mountain terrain with no roads and scarce to no population, two, it brings you extremely close to nature and one’s soul, three, it challenges you to beat the odds, four, it gives a new perspective to life, five, it makes you wonder how life must have been here for our ancestors, six it offers a hell of a breathtaking view throughout the journey and lastly, it is arguably the most isolated region in Ladakh that gets completely cut off from the rest of the world in the winter months.

Clouds playing hide and seek on the mountains

Travelling through Zanskar valley to reach Padum is certainly not for the faint-hearted and most sophisticated people, since the roads will surely break your backs. But then the promise of the valley offering views of world famous stunning landscapes and high altitude remote villages can get anyone interested in it. To thoroughly enjoy the next 10 to 12 hours of drive, keep an open mind, soak in the beauty on offer and ignore the bumps. 

Crystal clear waters throwing a stunning reflection of the mountains

As we left Parakachik, we could still see the frozen river bed at many places, an indelible sign of harsh winters. The shrubs, plants and grass from whatever came to life in the summer months were already changing its color from the fertile green to blossoming orange. 

Shrubs turning into orange and red in the first week of September

The mountains looked golden due to them. Dawa, unarguably mentions July and August to the best time to visit the valley, when it is full of life, with the flowers in bloom and the river running wild.

Golden Suru Valley

There were a few places, where the streams ran across the road, to the valley beneath and this meant gushing waters, huge pot holes and boulders on the roads. It is very much advisable to use only a high gear control vehicle, for those interested in self driving to Padum.

Where is the road? All I could see was water and rocks that rolled down from above

This backbreaking journey soon started to exhaust the men. But me, I was chirpy like a bird and all out to enjoy the vistas, opening around me. The tall grass swaying to the cold winds kept me hooked on. The landscape ahead was completely out of the world. 

Stunning view of a snow capped mountain reflected in the water

We enjoyed watching, the lone wild horse grazing in the distance, marmots hopping and skipping joyfully and even spotted a wild mountain deer in the boulders above a curve. No words uttered, we sat there, for as long as we could, to soak in the beauty all around us. We were all so happy and at peace, for, the view was nothing like we had seen ever before.

Wild horse grazing in the valley

Spotted a mountain deer

By around noon, we reached one of the most extreme and isolated part of Suru Valley, Rangdum. The first thing you notice is the tattered and unmanned check post. Later you see a hotel, a restaurant and a small room followed by the vast expanse of the plateau.

After the long coiling mountainous journey, it was pleasant to ride through this plateau. Till our eyes could see, there were humongous rugged mountains, surrounding us completely. It gave the feeling of being in a fortified island. As we went further, we saw the monastery, perched on top of a hillock. It looked like a fortified island, especially considering that the plateau was wet on most places, from the slush of the drying river bed. 

Rangdum Monastery on a hillock in the center

Approaching the monastery we could see the white tents which meant availability of accommodation for travelers if they do intend to stay here for the night. Crossing this, we soon came upon a check post which meant another stopover. You could choose to go up to the monastery and observe the monks go about their lives or let yourself be engulfed by the silence. Any which ways, wind seemed to be the only one that speaks nonstop here. It was freaking cold in the middle of the day. I can only imagine how the nights might be. The view from up the hill is glorious. 

Rangdum Monastery and the accommodation beneath it

We decided to have our lunch here. Dawa refused any more food, citing, he needs to stay alert. We were almost half way up to Padum now and the roads from here will only get worse.  It is highly recommended that you don’t spend the night at Rangdum (unless you are well acclimatized to these altitudes) as the altitude can get the best of you. 

Post lunch we put pedal to the metal and crossed over a small bridge.  The roads were not easy but an experienced person like Dawa could handle it so well. Further ahead, we saw the alpine lake. It looked so pristine and serene.  

Alpine Lake

Moving on, we started gaining altitude. The climb was really a tough one and soon we reached Penzi La top. Penzi La leads to Zanskar valley. It also indicates the end of Suru Valley and beginning of Zanskar Valley. The name board confirmed the same. 

Penzila Top offers a view of the glacier

We made a very short stop here as we couldn’t stay out in the open longer. Mind you, the winds are strong and cold. Surprisingly, there was a lone hutment just a few meters beneath the sign board and Dawa confirms that these are from the contract laborers of BRO who do clearing and other odd jobs in the summers. These also turn out to be a resting place for nomadic shepherds later. 

Drang Drung glacier suddenly becomes visible and it is enchanting, an entire snow river, WOW, truly marvelous sight to behold. We refuse to move on from there as our souls are captivated by this white mass of river flowing from the mountains. The wind here is very strong and cold. Also, the altitude means less oxygen to breathe. All this combined together can only be fatal, if someone decides to stay, longer than warranted. We managed a whole 25 minutes in the open enjoying this beauteous sight before the winds got the better of us. This glacier is a must see and am more than glad to have stood in front of it in complete silence and bliss.

Drang Drung Glacier

The way ahead is downward spiraling and we could see the twin alpine lakes from here. The color of these lakes change with the sunlight and I observe that I could be here forever looking at it. It is so pristine and beautiful in striking contrast to the almost white sandy river bed and barren mountains. 

Aqua green reflected in the lake due to brighter sunlight

The change in landscape is more evident as we enter Zanskar valley. We unanimously agree that Suru valley is greener and populated. Dawa mentions that Zanskar valley is more of a Buddhist settlement while Suru is predominantly occupied by Muslims. 

This is more evident from the chortens/stupas adorning the entire stretch of Zanskar valley. These have prayer stones and wheels, which are believed to spread good wishes and messages to this valley. I hear that there must at least be a thousand of these in this valley. Amazing it is to note how the message of peace, wellness and happiness, is spread through these chortens. We stop enroute in a couple of places to capture nature at its best on that day.

After a long long while, we come across a small village and Dawa requests permission to deliver a gas cylinder here. He is obviously helping some family by bringing in the cylinder all the way from Kargil. It’s not just cylinders; men like Dawa who drive vehicles bring in food supplies and other requirements too, at times, for their village folk. A community living, humaneness is what we witnessed that day. 

Curious about the stones lined like a boundary wall

We still have a couple more hours before we reach Padum and without further ado, we proceeded in the direction of our destination. The best part of this travel is the journey itself and not so much about the destination. I continue to gather information from Dawa about this valley and the settlements including the strange looking boundary walls up the mountains and his answers are ever curious. It is of notable mention that the men are humble, honest and true to their soul, a rare breed these days. By around 6ish we reach our destination and bid adieu to Dawa for ensuring a seamless and well spent journey. He left promising us to find someone who would drive us around to Karsha, Stongdey and Zangla, the next day

As it is already dark, we decide to take a shower, eat something light and explore Padum in the night. The stars were shining so bright and it was an amazing view. We just couldn’t stop looking at them. Soon we were intrigued by a small mountain that was right in front of us. We decided to hike up with the help of our small torch lights. For a good part of it, it was sheer fun but then spotting two bright lights way high up the mountain, started to unsettle us. These two lights were closing in on us and it meant that an animal could be fast approaching us. We now have to hurry down faster than it could come upon us. Unfortunately, it being the night time, we couldn’t hurry as fast as we would like to, as every step was slippery. Our bad that the stretch we chose to hike was steeper than the path that was clearly laid out.

We hiked up the black patch on the mountain which was almost gravel like and slippery

We did the best we could, taking turns to show torches and helping each other climb down faster. As soon as we approached the land, we ran as fast as our legs would carry us and rushed to our rooms. Later on, we found out that it was totally unsafe to hike that side of the mountain in the night especially in such a small group. Having had enough of an adventure for a day, we resigned to our beds.  

For all travelers alike, travel is always about the journey and not the destination. Journey to Zanskar can bring one closer to self and I have experienced it fully today. It truly has been an incredible journey today. 

Some useful tips

Carry a lot of chocolates and if possible packed food for breakfast and/or lunch. You can also opt to eat at one of the villages or in the monastery.

If time is on your hand break your journey from Kargil to Padum to 2 or 3 days. Enjoy time at Panikhar or Parakachik villages. They are truly beautiful.

Carry gifts such as books or pens to distribute to kids. They are very much eager to learn and appreciate these gifts a lot

Do not spend more time on the Penzi La top or at the view point for Drang Drung Glacier as it impacts you greatly later in the day.

For viewing the valley in full bloom, suggest you visit in July/August. In September and October the autumn colors come into play and they offer a completely different view of the valley.

Carry warm clothes and preferably wear them whenever stepping out of your vehicle especially at the glacier or the pass. Padum temperature in the night dips down to 6 degrees so be well prepared.