Jammu & Kashmir – As we saw it - Day 11 - Pangong Tso –Sakti - Leh

Sun was out somewhere beyond the mountains

At 4 am we were up and out of our cozy beds. Braving the cold winds, we started moving up a hillock right next to our guest house, to get a better view of the sun rise. Well, it was a little bit of a disappointment as there were clouds and the sun could be seen only when it came above the low hung clouds. Yet, the best part was that the first rays of Sun started illuminating these clouds creating mesmerizing paintings on the sky. 

Lake being lighted up with the first rays of the Sun

Finally we could see the Sun but it was so bright that we had to squint our eyes

At dawn around 6 am

In the day light at 8 am

As we were driving alongside the lake 

We drove further ahead alongside the lake till Man and Merak villages and I must admit that this journey was truly enchanting. The shades of blue varies according to the sunlight received and so in our journey to and back from these villages, we had seen several shades of blue and green against the brown barren mountains.

Shades of blue created by the sunlight and clouds, truly fascinating

Same view as above but a different shade altogether in a few minutes

You could spend hours here and still its beauty would continue to captivate you. Its a must visit place and worth spending at least a few hours by the lake. Soak yourself in its beauty.

It truly looked like an ocean with the small waves 

Clouds playing hide and seek

Its not just the waters, the mountains too have a dramatic effect from the clouds playing hide and seek,

Water changing its color depending on the clouds and sun

We parked our vehicle and went in closer. The crystal clear waters of this majestic lake bound us in a spell. There were a few migratory birds around the lake making it even more beautiful.

Snow capped mountains and the colorless water owing to cloud effect

Oh how many shades will you take but whichever it is you are still beautiful

Time flies when you are in love, be it with a person, book or a place. We didn’t realize the amount of time we spent gazing at the lake. It was so serene and tranquil, that you could easily slip into a trance with no effort.




An interesting info about this lake; China occupies two thirds of this lake while India has one third of it. The water is salty leading to various theories including the one that this lake was once a mighty ocean that was reduced to a lake when the earth plates collided.



The only disturbing thing I found in my journey here is the amount of dirt and garbage littered by tourists. I wish each one of us would be more responsible in protecting this fragile ecosystem. These amazing places are for everyone to admire so let’s preserve its beauty like the locals do.

Our growling tummies and the increased number of tourists to the lake was a clear indication that we had to head back. Bidding adieu to the lake, we moved towards our guest house. It was certainly time for an early lunch but nevertheless we enjoyed rotis (Indian flat breads) and vegetables made by a local woman. She lives in a nearby remote village and has her food stall facing the lake during the tourist season. Though there aren’t a lot of options in her menu, the food is definitely more than what you can wish for, at such remote places. The kindness I found in her is beyond compare.

Near Chang La

On our return journey, we crossed Lukung, Tangste, Durbuk and headed towards the famous Chang La pass. To our surprise our friend, took us downhill through a different route just as we crossed the pass. He didn’t mention where we were headed to as he had planned it as a surprise for us. He was taking us to his village which is around Sakti. The steep descent was for sure scary but his expert driving skills ensured our safety. There was a drastic change of scenery in the valley below. This village was so beautiful, like the one you see in a postcard. Its green fields, cattle and the tiny stream were so pristine, that I couldn’t believe its for real. We crossed the stream and yes I had to dip my feet in it. How could I miss the water running through your feet experience?

Village near Sakti

He led us to his house through a small fence. His folks were happy to receive us and quickly got into making sattu for us. It is their staple food, both delicious and healthy. We were seated in their living room while his mom and sister were preparing a drink for us. I moved around and ended up in his backyard. It was a beautiful kitchen garden. There were a lot of flowering plants and vegetables. I found a few friends in their pets and truly we couldn’t have asked for anything more than this pure love from this entire family. After spending a good amount of time, we said our goodbyes and proceeded towards Leh.

Ingenious idea of using tin cans as protection for the plants from the cattle

On our exit from this village, I could see a lot of trees being grown in the open barren land. These were protected from the grazing cattle by the tin cans. It’s a true wealth out of waste idea used for a good purpose. 

Shanti Stupa in the evening

We didn’t have much time left in our hands to visit either Hemis or Thicksey, so we headed directly to Leh. Once we reached Leh, we decided to visit Shantistupa, as we wanted to be up there in the evening hours. There is something magical about being atop this stupa as the daylight fades away. All we could see from here is the lit city of Leh but they weren't brighter than the lights from the sky. Yes, the stars are seen so vividly in these mountains and it never fails to fascinate you. You need to be up here in the night and you will admit that it is enthralling. It has been an enchanting day with some memories that will run forever. Off to sleep now for another exciting day.

Some useful tips:

1. You could cover Hemis/Thicksey/Shey on your onward and return journey from Pangong Tso if its a two or three day trip. Do not try to cover these places in a one day journey to Pangong. 

2. If you are someone who loves being in a monastery then suggest you keep a separate day for it. Hemis monastery has a lot to offer for seekers.

3. Do carry chocolates and other small giveaways for the locals. The love and kindness showered on you is without any expectation in return.

Jammu & Kashmir – As we saw it - Day 10 - Leh –Shey -Pangong Tso

I know its been a few months since I updated this blog but I hope you will excuse me for the absence. There were a couple of medical and personal emergencies that needed to be attended to. All is well now and here I am with the next update.

Bus schedule at Leh bus stand

Yesterday we had made inquiries for a taxi to reach Pangong Tso. Though we prefer to travel by bus with the locals, we realized that couldn’t be our preferred mode of transport as the buses are infrequent (Saturday and Sunday returning next day) and on Wednesday’s they go only till Tangste, about 35 kms before the lake. We had arranged for a taxi with an early morning departure so we could visit a few places enroute.

Our first stop was at Shey Monastery and Palace complex. It is located on the left hand side of the Leh Manali road, about 15 kms from Leh. Parking is on the sides of this road. Shey monastery is built on a hillock that overlooks a lake below. As we were climbing up the rays of the morning sun were already on the lake creating golden shimmers in the water. Our taxi driver, a young fella in his early twenties who was mostly aloof started opening up to us and became our guide sharing details of this monastery cum palace complex. We were informed that the monastery is noted for its giant copper with gilded gold statue of a seated Shakyamuni Buddha and this statue is said to the second largest such statue in Ladakh. We entered the prayer hall and I must say it was a blissful experience. 

The 12m seated Sakhyamani buddha inside Shey Monastery

On our exit, we chatted with the residing monks to know about the rituals and festivals that happen here. Every year two key festivals one at the beginning of the sowing season and the other at the harvest season happens here. So if you are visiting here in July/August you should be able to witness one. We were also told that oracle readers visit this place and read out prophecies.

View from Shey Palace/Monastery

We ascended the hill behind the monastery to the palace which is mostly in ruins now. Once above, you can have a panoramic view of Stakna, Stok, Thiksey villages and also Leh. We decided to move on and descended through a different route viewing the rock carvings. Once down, we went to the lake and witnessed the passersby taking a peek into it, seeking blessings. 

Shey Palace complex

Given the morning hours, the village folk were about their chores and kids were on their way to school. There were a couple of schools located around Shey village. Four kilometers ahead lies Thicksey monastery but we had decided to see it on our return. 

Thicksey Monastery at a distance

So, on we proceeded towards Pangong Tso. Our first stop came in the way of breakfast at Karu. It’s almost a Y junction here and the road on the right leads to Hemis monastery while the one going straight takes you to Chang La pass and Pangong Tso.

The road till here is very nice but as we crossed the check post at Karu and proceeded further towards the pass, we had to brace ourselves, as we were up for a bumpy ride. Not only that, from a distance we were bewildered if we were also in the land of the legendary Zorro. Yes, see for yourself the Z shaped roads. 

Is it really the legendary Zorro?

This stretch is treacherous and one needs to be careful driving here. Chang La is the third highest pass in the world, the first being Khardung La. In the local language, “La” means pass. Soon, we were crossing this pass and heading towards a beautiful hamlet called Tangste. Our little friend who was driving us had by now become one amongst us and he was more than happy sharing details about this region. He had asked us to watch out for Marmots which are easily spotted in this side of Ladakh. He was right, we could see a few, closer to the road. A few meters walk from our vehicle we saw their tiny burrows into which they quickly disappeared. Our patient wait led them out and our friendly gestures got them closer to us. We had a great time watching these friendly animals.

As we moved on we could spot wild horses and cattle in the mushy waters. It was just us and them till where our eyes could see. The tall mountain ranges, clear and vast blue sky only added up to the already dramatic scene making us tinier than we have ever felt. 

Wild horses in the mush. Love the shades of blue, green and brow 

We continued driving ahead and unannounced at a turn I saw the majestic indigo blue of Pangong Tso. My utterance “there, there it is” broke the silence in our car and got us all excited. 

The first sighting of the lake, oh what a beauty it is

In less than 15 minutes we reached the lake and headed straight to it. The mesmerizing colors of the lake keep changing from aqua green to indigo blue. The colors depend on the sunlight received and we were thankful for a bright sunny day. It does get very windy and given the cold temperature, we couldn’t stay longer by the lake.

As we had decided to spend a night by the lake, we started exploring around Pangong Tso. There are a variety of accommodations available here starting from swanky swiss tents to home stays. We chose for ourselves a cozy room and spent a comfortable night.







Some useful tips:

1. Food and accommodation is not a problem here if you are visiting from May to mid October. 

2. Home stays, hotels and other accommodations are available to suit every type of budget.

3. There are no ATMs here so please withdraw money from Leh itself 

4. Please keep in mind to not feed marmots as they will then run short of food in the harsh winter months. 

Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 9 - Around Leh - Marathon, Markets and Hall of Fame

Since morning there has been an excitement in the air. It is the Ladakh Marathon today and how could we not be excited about it, especially when our fellow traveler is participating in the event. We were up very early today to witness the beginning of the run in its full glory.  Since our accommodation was right next to Shanti Stupa, which was the flag off area for the run today, we couldn't be more thrilled. 

There was a lot of hustle and bustle since early morning, thanks to all participants gathered in Shanti Stupa. To witness such energy in motion, especially when its held in the high altitude area, you really got to be lucky especially if you aren't a participant yourself. Sharp 6 am, the Marathon (42 kms) challenge participants began their run and it truly was high energy and spirit in action. This was shortly followed by half marathon (21 kms) that was equally high in energy. However, the Ladakh run for fun (7 kms) which is open to everyone ranging from students to elders, armed forces and families stationed at Leh and tourists who happen to be in Leh during the marathon time, beat the others. This had the highest energy of all and saw different kind of participants. What moved me most was the girl on the wheels, whose resolute brought so much inexplicable joy to me. Hers was the happiest face that day that's etched in my memory.

With such an energized beginning for the day, what more could you ask for. We walked into the market area for a light breakfast followed by some inquiries for further travel and shopping. By lunch time, we also visited the Ladakh tourism office and gathered additional details. We got to know that Ladakh Food Festival will be held from Sep 23, 2015 to Sep 24, 2015. Well, we will be missing it for sure for by 24th we would be very much in Delhi carrying on with our routine lives. I came across the Monastic Festival Calendar that is posted here for reference. It may come in use for many planning their travels for the next couple of years. I have been told that the Hemis festival amongst all others is grandoise. 

Rest of the day we had decided to be spent in Hall of Fame. So down the road from the tourism office we took a shared ride to another market area, from where again we took another shared ride to Hall of Fame.  It was almost three when we reached and I had goose bumps all over as we entered the place. 

In the Hall of Fame you pass through several rooms demarcated as viewing galleries where you will see photos, arms, provisions, research materials, food supplies and clothes used by our troops around Ladakh. I was mesmerized by the photos especially of our men negotiating the glacial streams, ice caves and living in such high altitude tough weather conditions. We also saw a movie showcasing the strengths, victories, challenges faced by our men around J&K during the wars and other attacks. Kudos to you brave men who stand tall day in and day out. 

Post our Hall of Fame visit, we were back in the market. Our eyes caught the attention of the below funny nameboard.This one below said same same but different. Well that is the name of the shop and it had curios that came in all sizes and shapes which were of course all different. 

 

Right opposite this shop was a small hotel which was also renting bikes. It had a collection of vintage bikes as well and this one in red was a stunning hot beauty. We walked up and down this alley and purchased ourselves some fruits, clothes, shawls and lamps as gifts.

This day went way better than expected with us enjoying a wonderful pizza in Ladakh at La Piazzetta. The ambiance and food here is beyond compare. After relishing our dinner we walked our way back to our accommodation. It was a good hike with the only nuisance being that of stray dogs  around the corner of Shanti Stupa. These dogs are known for their notorious chases and bites of which we were forewarned. After the first day here, we began carrying sticks for our own safety.

Some useful tips:

1. Best way to explore Leh is by foot. Well the other alternative is to take the shared rides along with locals and fellow tourists.

2. Explore all avenues in the markets for every nook and corner has something on offer for the needy.

3. Food is never a problem here as you find everything right from Dosa to Pizza, so don't worry that you may end up eating only Noodles.

4. Locals are very friendly and offer you suggestions about the happenings around the town so do engage in small talk with the folks you meet on your way.

5. Home stays, hotels and other accommodations are available to suit every type of budget.

6. You will find ATMs in the main markets but some days they just run out of money so be prepared to have enough at the start of your day

Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 8 - Around Leh - LAMO, Leh Palace and Tsemo Castle

Yesterday's journey was ever so memorable and beautiful as were the previous ones. Every place seen in the past week has changed with altitude and yet each one is as beautiful as the other. J&K is truly a paradise on Earth, with its striking contrasts of barren brown mountains in Ladakh and the fertile greenery of Kashmir. Oh, one could never have enough of this place. 

Post a good night's rest, our day unfolded to another beautiful bright sunny morning. With no particular agenda on our minds, we wandered to the Leh market area exploring the many tiny shops and restaurants that filled either sides of the lanes. Our leisurely stroll took us to a junction and when we crossed it we saw many walking into a tiny lane that seemed to go up a small mountain. Our curiosity got the better of us and we decided to explore. A few steps ahead, we found a milk parlor serving fresh milk, lassi and ghee sweets. After relishing a glass of lassi, we inquired with the owner about his shop and got to know that he was the second generation owner, who is completely content with his enterprise. He indulged us in small talk sharing with us precious details of the region's tourism explosion in the recent past and the changes it brought with it. 

Taking his guidance, we took the small foot path that steadily climbed the mountain amidst the houses, in the hope to reach Leh castle, by foot. En route, we saw a few sign boards for LAMO (Ladakh Arts and Media Organisation) with interesting quotes and quirky facts and it sure triggered our interest. We entered LAMO, which is a public chartiable trust established to articulate an alternative vision for the arts and media in Ladakh. LAMO is presently housed in the center of Leh, in the premises two historical houses that are situated below the 17th century Leh Palace. These historical houses were restored by LAMO and the space from it, is now converted into galleries, offices, library, reading room, screening room, conference room and open air performance area. LAMO also conducts outreach programs, workshops, exhibitions and research and development projects showcasing Ladakh's art and culture. We didn't realize it had been almost 3 hours since we entered. We spent our time here talking to the person in charge to know more about LAMO, watched a documentary, read a few articles from the library, explored the galleries and got to know more about Ladakh through LAMO.

Leh Palace, below, as seen from LAMO entrance is only a few flight of stairs up from LAMO. There is a ticket counter outside as soon as you enter the palace complex. Once you have got your tickets, walk right through the stairs and enter the main door. The time we had been there, renovation was undergoing and the place was filled with workers who just went on about their work unmindful of the tourists. We walked through the series of rooms and reached the roof top for a good view of the Leh town below. What an amazing view it was; blue sky with sparse white clouds, barren mountains housing brown colored houses that completely blend in with the environment and on the right side green trees growing tall giving a green landscape to the town. 

Hunger brought us down from the palace. We did find a small eatery outside the Leh palace towards the parking area. After relishing rice and lentils, we sat down, soaking in the afternoon warm sun and the serene beauty of Leh. The restaurant's shaded roof offered an unobstructed view and their food was good both in quantity and quality.

Having seated there for more than an hour, we decided to hike up to Tsemo Castle. Apparently, its the tallest point in the center of Leh that would provide for a stunning view of the valley, shanti stupa, Leh palace and the taller mountain ranges around Leh. Given our adventure spirits, we decided to ditch the regular zigzag route that monks and locals took to go up the mountain and took on the lesser traversed steeper one. We were hiking up the rocky patches of the mountain and as we were half way up, the hike got tougher. Not wearing the right shoes only added on to the troubles. The path below seemed very slippery and it sure was scary for me to climb down. So I pushed myself only upwards never looking back or below. My husband was leading the hike and at one point he suggested we climb down, as he couldn't see any way up. My heart sank and as I took a few steps down it only caused slippages and that scared me a lot. I lost my nerve and told him "Either you find a way to go up or call for help, for I cannot climb down this slippery path". He sat down next to me and gave me confidence that he is there right next to me and would help me down. I just wouldn't listen for I wasn't confident of the climb down. It most certainly wasn't pleasant but I just couldn't take a step downward. That day I had faced my fears so closely that I came to know of my hidden side. This is why travel inspires me, I knew I was scared to climb down but at the same time, I wasn't scared to go up. It is not the fear of heights but its the fear of fall and hurt that was my limitation. I made a mental note to work on this in future so I overcome it. 

It would have been at least five to ten minutes of us being seated half way up a mountain in the afternoon sun before we saw a fellow traveler climb up the mountain. I could tell from a distance that he is a mountaineer. He walked up to us, mentioned it is because of us, he decided to climb the hill through this way. He went up and then started walking downhill, so he could go get his partner to climb up along with him. This gave me confidence and I began to take the lead this time trying to find our way up the hill. You see, I still wasn't confident of climbing down but I could find my way up. Soon we were near the prayer flags atop the hill. Prayers flags fluttering in the wind is the only sound you hear. There is so much peace and calm that you could hear your own heart beat. Take a view of the Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa through the fluttering prayer flags. From here it was a short descent across a narrow path to the other hill where the Tsemo castle is located. This seemed easy and we did it in no time. 

Once up at Tsemo, you get 360 degree view which doesn't fail to enchant you. The castle itself is completely in ruins and has no attractions but the hike itself and the panoramic views from above makes it memorable. Had I not done this, how else would I have come face to face with my fears and limitations, how would I have found confidence to move on. Travelling certainly brings one closer to understanding self and expands horizons in ways you would have never thought. We sat in silence enjoying the sunset. As the high mountains cast shadows with the sun's rays lighting up just the mountain peaks, the Leh palace began glowing while the rest of the mountain was getting darker. It was a similar story being painted on Shanti Stupa as well.

As it was getting dark, we decided to hike down the mountain and this time we took the route that monks and locals took. It certainly was steep but not as steep and slippery as the path we took on our way up. It certainly was a very special day for me for I got to know another side of me today. I couldn't have asked for anything more beautiful than how the day went.

Some useful tips:

1. If you are not a regular hiker, don't go hiking alone. Do it groups or at least with one other person in sight.

2. Wear appropriate shoes and clothes while you hiking. The mountains in Leh are not the regular ones you hike. They are made of mud and stones and can become very slippery

3. Beware of stray dogs. Carry a stick if possible to shoo them away.

4. Carry water and torch lights with you on your hike.

5. Stop and enjoy the vista once you have reached the top.

Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 7 - Kargil to Leh via Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi, Likir, Nimmoo, Gurudwara Pather Sahib

Its hard to believe one could visit so many places in a day. Well, not really, as you would see that the 210 kms from Kargil to Leh translates to about four 4 hours of journey time on the mountain roads. Also, this particular stretch of roads are so well maintained that the ride was really butter smooth. With all the places we intend to see en route being only minor detours from the highway, what best way to break our journey to Leh. 

We left Kargil just before 7 am, after the comfortable stay last night ensured that our batteries were replenished. It took us roughly half hour to reach Mulbekh which became our first pit stop. On the right hand side of the road Maitreya Buddha has a towering presence. The temple wasn't open yet and while we waited for the priest, we took a few nibbles of the biscuits and chai from the shops opposite. Few people who were waiting for the bus to Kargil became curious onlookers.  Small talk got us info about the significance of Maitreya. Post our temple visit we started on our next leg of journey.

In less than an hour we reached Namika La which was approximately 12000 ft. We did take a short break here, well with the photo stops and all. I enjoyed the comfortable ride since morning and all credits to the people responsible for maintaining this is in such shape. Within the next hour, we reached the loop roads and I also happened to spot my first desert flower here. Have a look you all. 

Fotu la, at approximately 13500 ft height is the highest point on the Srinagar Leh road and provided some amazing views. I could see the loop roads from here as well, given we had hardly traveled another five minutes from our previous stop.

Lamayuru was easily an hour's journey away and we were excited to visit the famed "Moon Land". We could spot the Lamayuru monastery as our car took the final turn on its approach to the monastery. The view was absolutely stunning.

Once within the monastery, we saw Avalokiteshwara (Buddha with 1000 hands) and a few other shrines.

As we exited and came in the open, we saw, kids being taught in open classrooms by a few monks. It was such a mesmerizing scene. None of the kids or the monks got distracted by our presence. We soon found our way up the mount behind the monastery. A single footpath climb led us to amazing views of the lunar landscape. It seemed like the moon land was awaiting our visit, so calm and serene, with nothing else in sight, except its own beauty. This moonscape is most certainly incredible with its spectacular geological formations. See for yourself, you will know what I mean.  

Once you are way up the mountain, you could also see the purple topped roads, forming many loops on its way to Leh. There is a green path of vegetation on the other side where there are small households with people busy with cattle farming and meditation. The lake mentioned in the legend has vanished for sure leaving no trace of its presence. Around the monastery, old woman spin their hand held prayer wheel non stop. One could just keep watching them. They are a sight of peace, love and tranquility. After having spent a few hours there, we left Lamayuru filled with so much joy and peace.

In the next thirty minutes we found ourselves in Khaltse where our driver suggested we should have lunch. Given we had already planned for lunch at Alchi, we decided to let him have his here, while we would later. A quick 15 minutes later we were on our way once again and the green belt which is fondly called as Uleytokpo came in sight. It was a short but beautiful stretch of ride here. There were some good resorts in the lush green surroundings. We did not make our stop here. Its for another time for yet another Ladakh trip I presumed.

Soon enough we reached Alchi. It must have only been ten to fifteen minutes from Uleytokpo to Alchi. Before Saspul, take the right on the bridge crossing the Indus river and you will reach Alchi. First we wanted to have our lunch. We walked through the market watching for a sign. During my travels one of the things I have learned is to go into the most recommended or most crowded restaurants for there is good food for sure and you wouldn't be left wanting for more. We chose the German Bakery at Alchi overseeing a house surrounded by apricot and apple trees. When you have a soothing sight along with delectable food, what more can you ask for. We most certainly enjoyed our meal, picked a few apricots sold by an old man and walked into the monastery. The three temples here held some beautiful paintings and the Tara within the Manjushree temple was a magnificent view. So was the temple door way, I must admit. Easily we must have spent an hour within the monastery admiring its beauty.

We were advised to go visit Likir Gompa as well by the locals. As we understood, it housed some amazing view of the region and a tall Maitreya Buddha statue in seated position. We so looked forward to it. It was a 20 km ride from Alchi which is almost a thirty minute ride. Once there, we hiked up the monastery from the parking lot. It indeed was beautiful. Having visited a few monasteries in the past couple of days, I can only appreciate more the peace and tranquility it offers. You could sit on the rooftop admiring the beauty around. Breathing in the less oxygen available along with the calmness surrounding you, one can easily be calmed and soothed and be alienated from the wanderings of the mind. We didn't take too long a time here but spent enough to enjoy the beauty it offers.

We proceeded to Leh, excited to have seen so many places since morning and still not tired of the day. En route we spotted Basgo palace. There was never a plan to visit here so we kept on till we reached Nimmoo. At Nimmoo, we could see the confluence of the rivers, Indus and Zanskar, so beautifully merging losing its distinct colors in becoming one. Truly a sight to behold. Nimmoo seemed to convey so much with a single view than what I could have gathered through all the writings about it which I happened to have come across earlier. Life, like this confluence, has so much to offer, if you happen to truly allow your feelings to merge within, rather than get worked up about it. It was before sunset and we enjoyed the vistas here. 

In the next few minutes, we were told we will be in Magnetic Hill. It is also called as the gravity hill and the most hyped about phenomenon here is about the wheels moving uphill when people are actually trying to go downhill. Well, the truth is, this is nature's own optical illusion being played on us all. Vehicles may appear to roll uphill in defiance of gravity while they are actually moving downhill. We let this optical illusion trick us a few times and thoroughly enjoyed it. The air around here echoed the excitement from the folks viewing it. After the little trick show, we moved on enjoying the long straight roads. It was like we were in the plains and felt almost like a desert but surrounded by large mountains.

By evening's tea time, we were at Gurudwara Pathar Sahib. We have heard so much about this place that we couldn't proceed without visiting it. Pathar Sahib welcomed us with a humongous heart. The dedicated service of the men here are beyond compare. Every visitor is offered tea and snacks free of cost just like any Gurudwara in the city. The crowd just keeps pouring day in and out throughout the peak tourist season. Once inside, you would see the Pathar (stone) with hollow imprints of Guru Nanak's shoulder, neck and backside. You would also see the footprint of the demon on another rock. This was our last stop for the day before we reach our accommodation at Leh. We thoroughly enjoyed our time here sipping on hot tea and nibbling on the snacks offered. Again I felt in peace here, just like it was in the monasteries. 

It was late evening and well before time for dinner that we reached Leh. A truly amazing day travelling through such beautiful terrain and I still cannot stop appreciating the best roads I have seen so far in the entire J&K.

Some useful tips:

1. With comfortable pit stops you could cover the mentioned places easily in a day. You don't have to rush it in anywhere.

2. A stay in Alchi or Uleytokpo comes easy as these places are beautiful by themselves and one could spend days here doing nothing but admiring the nature.

3. Old men and women at Lamayuru and Alchi, do not expect anything from you but are more than willing to share what they have. Help them by buying what they have to sell. 

4. Be open and your kindness will be reciprocated multifold.