Yesterday's journey was ever so memorable and beautiful as were the previous ones. Every place seen in the past week has changed with altitude and yet each one is as beautiful as the other. J&K is truly a paradise on Earth, with its striking contrasts of barren brown mountains in Ladakh and the fertile greenery of Kashmir. Oh, one could never have enough of this place.
Post a good night's rest, our day unfolded to another beautiful bright sunny morning. With no particular agenda on our minds, we wandered to the Leh market area exploring the many tiny shops and restaurants that filled either sides of the lanes. Our leisurely stroll took us to a junction and when we crossed it we saw many walking into a tiny lane that seemed to go up a small mountain. Our curiosity got the better of us and we decided to explore. A few steps ahead, we found a milk parlor serving fresh milk, lassi and ghee sweets. After relishing a glass of lassi, we inquired with the owner about his shop and got to know that he was the second generation owner, who is completely content with his enterprise. He indulged us in small talk sharing with us precious details of the region's tourism explosion in the recent past and the changes it brought with it.
Taking his guidance, we took the small foot path that steadily climbed the mountain amidst the houses, in the hope to reach Leh castle, by foot. En route, we saw a few sign boards for LAMO (Ladakh Arts and Media Organisation) with interesting quotes and quirky facts and it sure triggered our interest. We entered LAMO, which is a public chartiable trust established to articulate an alternative vision for the arts and media in Ladakh. LAMO is presently housed in the center of Leh, in the premises two historical houses that are situated below the 17th century Leh Palace. These historical houses were restored by LAMO and the space from it, is now converted into galleries, offices, library, reading room, screening room, conference room and open air performance area. LAMO also conducts outreach programs, workshops, exhibitions and research and development projects showcasing Ladakh's art and culture. We didn't realize it had been almost 3 hours since we entered. We spent our time here talking to the person in charge to know more about LAMO, watched a documentary, read a few articles from the library, explored the galleries and got to know more about Ladakh through LAMO.
Leh Palace, below, as seen from LAMO entrance is only a few flight of stairs up from LAMO. There is a ticket counter outside as soon as you enter the palace complex. Once you have got your tickets, walk right through the stairs and enter the main door. The time we had been there, renovation was undergoing and the place was filled with workers who just went on about their work unmindful of the tourists. We walked through the series of rooms and reached the roof top for a good view of the Leh town below. What an amazing view it was; blue sky with sparse white clouds, barren mountains housing brown colored houses that completely blend in with the environment and on the right side green trees growing tall giving a green landscape to the town.
Hunger brought us down from the palace. We did find a small eatery outside the Leh palace towards the parking area. After relishing rice and lentils, we sat down, soaking in the afternoon warm sun and the serene beauty of Leh. The restaurant's shaded roof offered an unobstructed view and their food was good both in quantity and quality.
Having seated there for more than an hour, we decided to hike up to Tsemo Castle. Apparently, its the tallest point in the center of Leh that would provide for a stunning view of the valley, shanti stupa, Leh palace and the taller mountain ranges around Leh. Given our adventure spirits, we decided to ditch the regular zigzag route that monks and locals took to go up the mountain and took on the lesser traversed steeper one. We were hiking up the rocky patches of the mountain and as we were half way up, the hike got tougher. Not wearing the right shoes only added on to the troubles. The path below seemed very slippery and it sure was scary for me to climb down. So I pushed myself only upwards never looking back or below. My husband was leading the hike and at one point he suggested we climb down, as he couldn't see any way up. My heart sank and as I took a few steps down it only caused slippages and that scared me a lot. I lost my nerve and told him "Either you find a way to go up or call for help, for I cannot climb down this slippery path". He sat down next to me and gave me confidence that he is there right next to me and would help me down. I just wouldn't listen for I wasn't confident of the climb down. It most certainly wasn't pleasant but I just couldn't take a step downward. That day I had faced my fears so closely that I came to know of my hidden side. This is why travel inspires me, I knew I was scared to climb down but at the same time, I wasn't scared to go up. It is not the fear of heights but its the fear of fall and hurt that was my limitation. I made a mental note to work on this in future so I overcome it.
It would have been at least five to ten minutes of us being seated half way up a mountain in the afternoon sun before we saw a fellow traveler climb up the mountain. I could tell from a distance that he is a mountaineer. He walked up to us, mentioned it is because of us, he decided to climb the hill through this way. He went up and then started walking downhill, so he could go get his partner to climb up along with him. This gave me confidence and I began to take the lead this time trying to find our way up the hill. You see, I still wasn't confident of climbing down but I could find my way up. Soon we were near the prayer flags atop the hill. Prayers flags fluttering in the wind is the only sound you hear. There is so much peace and calm that you could hear your own heart beat. Take a view of the Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa through the fluttering prayer flags. From here it was a short descent across a narrow path to the other hill where the Tsemo castle is located. This seemed easy and we did it in no time.
Once up at Tsemo, you get 360 degree view which doesn't fail to enchant you. The castle itself is completely in ruins and has no attractions but the hike itself and the panoramic views from above makes it memorable. Had I not done this, how else would I have come face to face with my fears and limitations, how would I have found confidence to move on. Travelling certainly brings one closer to understanding self and expands horizons in ways you would have never thought. We sat in silence enjoying the sunset. As the high mountains cast shadows with the sun's rays lighting up just the mountain peaks, the Leh palace began glowing while the rest of the mountain was getting darker. It was a similar story being painted on Shanti Stupa as well.
As it was getting dark, we decided to hike down the mountain and this time we took the route that monks and locals took. It certainly was steep but not as steep and slippery as the path we took on our way up. It certainly was a very special day for me for I got to know another side of me today. I couldn't have asked for anything more beautiful than how the day went.
Some useful tips:
1. If you are not a regular hiker, don't go hiking alone. Do it groups or at least with one other person in sight.
2. Wear appropriate shoes and clothes while you hiking. The mountains in Leh are not the regular ones you hike. They are made of mud and stones and can become very slippery
3. Beware of stray dogs. Carry a stick if possible to shoo them away.
4. Carry water and torch lights with you on your hike.
5. Stop and enjoy the vista once you have reached the top.
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