Jammu & Kashmir – As we saw it - Day 11 - Pangong Tso –Sakti - Leh

Sun was out somewhere beyond the mountains

At 4 am we were up and out of our cozy beds. Braving the cold winds, we started moving up a hillock right next to our guest house, to get a better view of the sun rise. Well, it was a little bit of a disappointment as there were clouds and the sun could be seen only when it came above the low hung clouds. Yet, the best part was that the first rays of Sun started illuminating these clouds creating mesmerizing paintings on the sky. 

Lake being lighted up with the first rays of the Sun

Finally we could see the Sun but it was so bright that we had to squint our eyes

At dawn around 6 am

In the day light at 8 am

As we were driving alongside the lake 

We drove further ahead alongside the lake till Man and Merak villages and I must admit that this journey was truly enchanting. The shades of blue varies according to the sunlight received and so in our journey to and back from these villages, we had seen several shades of blue and green against the brown barren mountains.

Shades of blue created by the sunlight and clouds, truly fascinating

Same view as above but a different shade altogether in a few minutes

You could spend hours here and still its beauty would continue to captivate you. Its a must visit place and worth spending at least a few hours by the lake. Soak yourself in its beauty.

It truly looked like an ocean with the small waves 

Clouds playing hide and seek

Its not just the waters, the mountains too have a dramatic effect from the clouds playing hide and seek,

Water changing its color depending on the clouds and sun

We parked our vehicle and went in closer. The crystal clear waters of this majestic lake bound us in a spell. There were a few migratory birds around the lake making it even more beautiful.

Snow capped mountains and the colorless water owing to cloud effect

Oh how many shades will you take but whichever it is you are still beautiful

Time flies when you are in love, be it with a person, book or a place. We didn’t realize the amount of time we spent gazing at the lake. It was so serene and tranquil, that you could easily slip into a trance with no effort.




An interesting info about this lake; China occupies two thirds of this lake while India has one third of it. The water is salty leading to various theories including the one that this lake was once a mighty ocean that was reduced to a lake when the earth plates collided.



The only disturbing thing I found in my journey here is the amount of dirt and garbage littered by tourists. I wish each one of us would be more responsible in protecting this fragile ecosystem. These amazing places are for everyone to admire so let’s preserve its beauty like the locals do.

Our growling tummies and the increased number of tourists to the lake was a clear indication that we had to head back. Bidding adieu to the lake, we moved towards our guest house. It was certainly time for an early lunch but nevertheless we enjoyed rotis (Indian flat breads) and vegetables made by a local woman. She lives in a nearby remote village and has her food stall facing the lake during the tourist season. Though there aren’t a lot of options in her menu, the food is definitely more than what you can wish for, at such remote places. The kindness I found in her is beyond compare.

Near Chang La

On our return journey, we crossed Lukung, Tangste, Durbuk and headed towards the famous Chang La pass. To our surprise our friend, took us downhill through a different route just as we crossed the pass. He didn’t mention where we were headed to as he had planned it as a surprise for us. He was taking us to his village which is around Sakti. The steep descent was for sure scary but his expert driving skills ensured our safety. There was a drastic change of scenery in the valley below. This village was so beautiful, like the one you see in a postcard. Its green fields, cattle and the tiny stream were so pristine, that I couldn’t believe its for real. We crossed the stream and yes I had to dip my feet in it. How could I miss the water running through your feet experience?

Village near Sakti

He led us to his house through a small fence. His folks were happy to receive us and quickly got into making sattu for us. It is their staple food, both delicious and healthy. We were seated in their living room while his mom and sister were preparing a drink for us. I moved around and ended up in his backyard. It was a beautiful kitchen garden. There were a lot of flowering plants and vegetables. I found a few friends in their pets and truly we couldn’t have asked for anything more than this pure love from this entire family. After spending a good amount of time, we said our goodbyes and proceeded towards Leh.

Ingenious idea of using tin cans as protection for the plants from the cattle

On our exit from this village, I could see a lot of trees being grown in the open barren land. These were protected from the grazing cattle by the tin cans. It’s a true wealth out of waste idea used for a good purpose. 

Shanti Stupa in the evening

We didn’t have much time left in our hands to visit either Hemis or Thicksey, so we headed directly to Leh. Once we reached Leh, we decided to visit Shantistupa, as we wanted to be up there in the evening hours. There is something magical about being atop this stupa as the daylight fades away. All we could see from here is the lit city of Leh but they weren't brighter than the lights from the sky. Yes, the stars are seen so vividly in these mountains and it never fails to fascinate you. You need to be up here in the night and you will admit that it is enthralling. It has been an enchanting day with some memories that will run forever. Off to sleep now for another exciting day.

Some useful tips:

1. You could cover Hemis/Thicksey/Shey on your onward and return journey from Pangong Tso if its a two or three day trip. Do not try to cover these places in a one day journey to Pangong. 

2. If you are someone who loves being in a monastery then suggest you keep a separate day for it. Hemis monastery has a lot to offer for seekers.

3. Do carry chocolates and other small giveaways for the locals. The love and kindness showered on you is without any expectation in return.