Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 4 - Kargil to Padum via Suru and Zanskar Valley viewing Penzi La Top and Drang Drung Glacier

It was a pleasant morning and I woke up to the cold breeze seeping through the crevices in the window. It was already 4 am and there was half hour left for Dawa, our driver to reach here. Braving the cold morning, we showered (thanks to the hot water) and packed, getting ready for an incredible journey.

Around 4.30 am, we left Kargil with the accompaniment of moonlight. The sky was studded with stars so bright that this place looked ever so beautiful. The pitch black of the early morning added more beauty to the starlit sky. The only noise apart from our Sumo was that of the crackling water. I could sense that a river was nearby and wished to see it. Dawa, acknowledged that Suru river is running parallel to the road. Apparently, it would be accompanying us for most part of the journey into the Suru Valley, so I couldn't miss it even if I wanted to.

At the break of dawn, Suru river was visible. I noticed that we were way out of Kargil and entered Suru Valley already. Surprisingly for this altitude, Suru river keeps the valley a lush green. I must admit that this is the greenest valley in the Ladakh region. Vegetation here ensures people were kept busy in the fields throughout summer.

Somewhere in the Suru Valley, on our return

A couple of hours had passed by now and we entered Sankhoo village, a beautiful lush green hamlet, offering breathtaking views. It is roughly 40 kms away from Kargil and given the early morning hours, people were either waking up, or were busy with their daily routine. Looking at their attire, it is easily understood that it is predominantly a Muslim village. We later learnt from the locals that villages up to Parakachik are predominantly occupied by Muslims.


There were a few shops in line at a particular stretch of the road and one can easily guess that it is the market area of this village. Dawa mentioned that this is the first main village in Suru Valley. Within a minute we had crossed the market and were now surrounded by mountains yet again. This village is picturesque at its best. Little wonder then that it is the most sought after picnic spot for the locals. The rich flora and fauna, beautiful village people and the pristine river is just a leaf out of the book called paradise.

Mentally, the four of us were prepared for a very long back breaking journey. Little did we know that it will also become an awe inspiring one. We crossed a few tiny villages en route and each looked serene. At a juncture where the roads split up to go to Panikhar and Rangdum and beyond, there was a check post. We made a pit stop here for entry of the vehicle details. This gave me the opportunity to jump out and breathe in the cold morning air. Sun was slowly coming up now and we could spot the twin peaks of Nun and Kun in the distance. It is a wonder that one is always covered in snow while the other isn’t so much. The snow capped peaks glistened to first rays of the sun weaving magic to onlookers. Take a peek.

View of Nun and Kun from the check-post

Waving at the few village folk on their way up to usual business, we left for Panikhar village, choosing the path leading downwards. It welcomed us with an amazing view of the Nun and Kun peaks. I am informed later by a local that it serves as a base for many trekkers seeking to climb the peaks of Suru Valley. It is yet another beautiful village with small houses, village folk and kids playing in the open.

Distant view of a village in Suru Valley

As breakfast was arranged for us in Parakachik, we continued our journey. Parakachik is a small village but then it would also be the last one before Rangdum, which is mid way to Padum. We took our first long break here after a few hours of travelling. Till that check-post tar roads were present and the ride was pleasant and comfortable. From then on, forget tarmac, there were only mountain roads. It meant a roller coaster ride is awaiting us for the rest of the day. After enjoying our breakfast and watching the river flowing through the valley, we decided to move on.

Watching Suru River

Locals suggested an alternate route that would save us going back all the way to the check-post to catch the other road that led up the mountain. Dawa was initially hesitant to take this route, as he hadn't been through it, in a very long time. He wasn't aware of its status and that wasn't comforting to him. Also, choosing it would mean, an additional 7 kms of pretty bad roads. Honestly who cares about the distance when the view is magnificent. With little persuasion, he took this route and we were a happy bunch after all. 

Lonesome in the long roads of valley

See the thing about going to Padum has multiple payoffs; one, it is a least explored place thanks to the high altitude treacherous mountain terrain with no roads and scarce to no population, two, it brings you extremely close to nature and one’s soul, three, it challenges you to beat the odds, four, it gives a new perspective to life, five, it makes you wonder how life must have been here for our ancestors, six it offers a hell of a breathtaking view throughout the journey and lastly, it is arguably the most isolated region in Ladakh that gets completely cut off from the rest of the world in the winter months.

Clouds playing hide and seek on the mountains

Travelling through Zanskar valley to reach Padum is certainly not for the faint-hearted and most sophisticated people, since the roads will surely break your backs. But then the promise of the valley offering views of world famous stunning landscapes and high altitude remote villages can get anyone interested in it. To thoroughly enjoy the next 10 to 12 hours of drive, keep an open mind, soak in the beauty on offer and ignore the bumps. 

Crystal clear waters throwing a stunning reflection of the mountains

As we left Parakachik, we could still see the frozen river bed at many places, an indelible sign of harsh winters. The shrubs, plants and grass from whatever came to life in the summer months were already changing its color from the fertile green to blossoming orange. 

Shrubs turning into orange and red in the first week of September

The mountains looked golden due to them. Dawa, unarguably mentions July and August to the best time to visit the valley, when it is full of life, with the flowers in bloom and the river running wild.

Golden Suru Valley

There were a few places, where the streams ran across the road, to the valley beneath and this meant gushing waters, huge pot holes and boulders on the roads. It is very much advisable to use only a high gear control vehicle, for those interested in self driving to Padum.

Where is the road? All I could see was water and rocks that rolled down from above

This backbreaking journey soon started to exhaust the men. But me, I was chirpy like a bird and all out to enjoy the vistas, opening around me. The tall grass swaying to the cold winds kept me hooked on. The landscape ahead was completely out of the world. 

Stunning view of a snow capped mountain reflected in the water

We enjoyed watching, the lone wild horse grazing in the distance, marmots hopping and skipping joyfully and even spotted a wild mountain deer in the boulders above a curve. No words uttered, we sat there, for as long as we could, to soak in the beauty all around us. We were all so happy and at peace, for, the view was nothing like we had seen ever before.

Wild horse grazing in the valley

Spotted a mountain deer

By around noon, we reached one of the most extreme and isolated part of Suru Valley, Rangdum. The first thing you notice is the tattered and unmanned check post. Later you see a hotel, a restaurant and a small room followed by the vast expanse of the plateau.

After the long coiling mountainous journey, it was pleasant to ride through this plateau. Till our eyes could see, there were humongous rugged mountains, surrounding us completely. It gave the feeling of being in a fortified island. As we went further, we saw the monastery, perched on top of a hillock. It looked like a fortified island, especially considering that the plateau was wet on most places, from the slush of the drying river bed. 

Rangdum Monastery on a hillock in the center

Approaching the monastery we could see the white tents which meant availability of accommodation for travelers if they do intend to stay here for the night. Crossing this, we soon came upon a check post which meant another stopover. You could choose to go up to the monastery and observe the monks go about their lives or let yourself be engulfed by the silence. Any which ways, wind seemed to be the only one that speaks nonstop here. It was freaking cold in the middle of the day. I can only imagine how the nights might be. The view from up the hill is glorious. 

Rangdum Monastery and the accommodation beneath it

We decided to have our lunch here. Dawa refused any more food, citing, he needs to stay alert. We were almost half way up to Padum now and the roads from here will only get worse.  It is highly recommended that you don’t spend the night at Rangdum (unless you are well acclimatized to these altitudes) as the altitude can get the best of you. 

Post lunch we put pedal to the metal and crossed over a small bridge.  The roads were not easy but an experienced person like Dawa could handle it so well. Further ahead, we saw the alpine lake. It looked so pristine and serene.  

Alpine Lake

Moving on, we started gaining altitude. The climb was really a tough one and soon we reached Penzi La top. Penzi La leads to Zanskar valley. It also indicates the end of Suru Valley and beginning of Zanskar Valley. The name board confirmed the same. 

Penzila Top offers a view of the glacier

We made a very short stop here as we couldn’t stay out in the open longer. Mind you, the winds are strong and cold. Surprisingly, there was a lone hutment just a few meters beneath the sign board and Dawa confirms that these are from the contract laborers of BRO who do clearing and other odd jobs in the summers. These also turn out to be a resting place for nomadic shepherds later. 

Drang Drung glacier suddenly becomes visible and it is enchanting, an entire snow river, WOW, truly marvelous sight to behold. We refuse to move on from there as our souls are captivated by this white mass of river flowing from the mountains. The wind here is very strong and cold. Also, the altitude means less oxygen to breathe. All this combined together can only be fatal, if someone decides to stay, longer than warranted. We managed a whole 25 minutes in the open enjoying this beauteous sight before the winds got the better of us. This glacier is a must see and am more than glad to have stood in front of it in complete silence and bliss.

Drang Drung Glacier

The way ahead is downward spiraling and we could see the twin alpine lakes from here. The color of these lakes change with the sunlight and I observe that I could be here forever looking at it. It is so pristine and beautiful in striking contrast to the almost white sandy river bed and barren mountains. 

Aqua green reflected in the lake due to brighter sunlight

The change in landscape is more evident as we enter Zanskar valley. We unanimously agree that Suru valley is greener and populated. Dawa mentions that Zanskar valley is more of a Buddhist settlement while Suru is predominantly occupied by Muslims. 

This is more evident from the chortens/stupas adorning the entire stretch of Zanskar valley. These have prayer stones and wheels, which are believed to spread good wishes and messages to this valley. I hear that there must at least be a thousand of these in this valley. Amazing it is to note how the message of peace, wellness and happiness, is spread through these chortens. We stop enroute in a couple of places to capture nature at its best on that day.

After a long long while, we come across a small village and Dawa requests permission to deliver a gas cylinder here. He is obviously helping some family by bringing in the cylinder all the way from Kargil. It’s not just cylinders; men like Dawa who drive vehicles bring in food supplies and other requirements too, at times, for their village folk. A community living, humaneness is what we witnessed that day. 

Curious about the stones lined like a boundary wall

We still have a couple more hours before we reach Padum and without further ado, we proceeded in the direction of our destination. The best part of this travel is the journey itself and not so much about the destination. I continue to gather information from Dawa about this valley and the settlements including the strange looking boundary walls up the mountains and his answers are ever curious. It is of notable mention that the men are humble, honest and true to their soul, a rare breed these days. By around 6ish we reach our destination and bid adieu to Dawa for ensuring a seamless and well spent journey. He left promising us to find someone who would drive us around to Karsha, Stongdey and Zangla, the next day

As it is already dark, we decide to take a shower, eat something light and explore Padum in the night. The stars were shining so bright and it was an amazing view. We just couldn’t stop looking at them. Soon we were intrigued by a small mountain that was right in front of us. We decided to hike up with the help of our small torch lights. For a good part of it, it was sheer fun but then spotting two bright lights way high up the mountain, started to unsettle us. These two lights were closing in on us and it meant that an animal could be fast approaching us. We now have to hurry down faster than it could come upon us. Unfortunately, it being the night time, we couldn’t hurry as fast as we would like to, as every step was slippery. Our bad that the stretch we chose to hike was steeper than the path that was clearly laid out.

We hiked up the black patch on the mountain which was almost gravel like and slippery

We did the best we could, taking turns to show torches and helping each other climb down faster. As soon as we approached the land, we ran as fast as our legs would carry us and rushed to our rooms. Later on, we found out that it was totally unsafe to hike that side of the mountain in the night especially in such a small group. Having had enough of an adventure for a day, we resigned to our beds.  

For all travelers alike, travel is always about the journey and not the destination. Journey to Zanskar can bring one closer to self and I have experienced it fully today. It truly has been an incredible journey today. 

Some useful tips

Carry a lot of chocolates and if possible packed food for breakfast and/or lunch. You can also opt to eat at one of the villages or in the monastery.

If time is on your hand break your journey from Kargil to Padum to 2 or 3 days. Enjoy time at Panikhar or Parakachik villages. They are truly beautiful.

Carry gifts such as books or pens to distribute to kids. They are very much eager to learn and appreciate these gifts a lot

Do not spend more time on the Penzi La top or at the view point for Drang Drung Glacier as it impacts you greatly later in the day.

For viewing the valley in full bloom, suggest you visit in July/August. In September and October the autumn colors come into play and they offer a completely different view of the valley.

Carry warm clothes and preferably wear them whenever stepping out of your vehicle especially at the glacier or the pass. Padum temperature in the night dips down to 6 degrees so be well prepared.