Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 3 - Srinagar to Kargil via Zojila pass

A new morning and what is more exciting is that we are now proceeding to the Ladakh region, the land of Julley.  

“7.30 am the bus leaves so report here by 7” was our instruction from Srinagar TRC. We reached at 7 am and the bus was loaded from the rear to the middle with huge sacks. I was confused if I got the wrong bus and rechecked at the counter. ‘No madam that is the right number that I gave you and for the day that is the only bus leaving for Leh’. Further enquiry with the driver confirmed that we will be travelling with the sacks behind us till Leh. Driver went on “What do I tell you about our livelihoods in these mountains? These buses carry a lot apart from travelers.” These are ‘Dak’ (meaning postal items, letters and parcels) and it is their usual way of being delivered to the office in the higher altitude. We were speechless yet smiling thinking about these silent companions who would accompany us on our maiden journey from Srinagar to Leh.

The famous bus that carried us from Srinagar to Kargil

We got on to loading our bags on the rooftop of the bus along with other passengers. Unlike in the urban cities where the driver and cleaner help us in loading our luggage on top or under as in the case of Volvo, here, you are to carry your own to the roof and secure it. One woman was requesting the men for assistance to secure her chair on top along with her other items. She mentioned that she is on a transfer to Leh and is moving quite a few things via bus. To think about a chair travelling on top of the bus reminded me of the scene in the movie ‘Piku’ where Amitabh’s chair is tied on top of the hired car. Laughing for a moment I forgot completely about it. Dev climbed down and introduced me to a new found friend, Raghav, as the bus started on its journey. It was interesting to know that we had a few things in common apart from our passion to travel; language, food habits and workplace are to name a few. We got into chatting, getting to know about each other, travel plans and so on till we were disturbed by shouting. All that we could make sense of was something fell off the bus. Imagine our shock as the bus had been on its journey for not even 10 minutes and there something fell from the roof already. Few passengers and driver went scouting for the lost item while the others climbed to see if the rest was secured tight. Those who went in search came back ripped in laughter as the chair that sat on top of all other luggage flew straight into the drain. A couple of them climbed down the bridge that we just crossed to get to it. This time the chair was brought inside the bus. Fellow passengers burst into laughter seeing the now rescued flying chair. I could sense that this journey will be as interesting as it gets.

As we exited Srinagar, this view awaited us

Dirt roads and town crowds soon disappeared to inviting greenery and beautiful landscapes dotted with striking homes and delightful people. The route from Srinagar to Sonamarg is enthralling at its best. Every turn offers so much beauty that you are ever so happy to receive. Lush green mountains, paddy fields, water bodies, apple trees and people only add more beauty to the already incredible sight. Man made water ways in the hills were plenty and we understood from the locals that these are essential for both supplying water and to prevent erosion/flash floods.  The valley is justly called the paradise on earth. Everything here is beautiful and you are left awestruck with the creator’s generosity. I could never take my eyes off the roads for the river was accompanying us all along.

This river kept running alongside the road forever

Our first pit stop came at Kangan. We alighted for a hot cup of tea and some condiments. Kangan has nothing much but a couple of wayside eateries that come along with the river in their background. If you are travelling on your own vehicle or a hired taxi, spend a few hours by the river devouring its cool, clear water. Back in the city you do not get this my friend. My spirits were lifted high both by the tea and the pleasant weather.

Soon we were moving on and started gaining altitude. The scenic beauty made me feel so light and soothened my nerves. I noticed we were entering Sonamarg and true to its name, it beholds a lot of beauty, aqua green river, blue sky filled with snow white clouds, mountain ranges capped with snow, green grasslands where the wild horse is grazing, tourists are playing and tall trees are covering the length and breadth of the mountains….Mesmerized completely with the sights around, we sat back and relaxed as our bus continued on further.

As we were entering Sonamarg

We were gaining altitude and there was change in the landscape. The lush green carpeted mountains were vanishing to dry barren mountains and I realized Zozila pass is fast approaching. As I was soaking in this beauteous sight, the wheels braked and I could see a long line of vehicles ahead of our bus.

Landslide affecting traffic as we were approaching Zojila Pass

Men helping in clearing the rocks that rolled down from above

You know, everything happens for a reason and I am a firm believer of this. There was a land slide that had caused the traffic to be stalled. Trucks carrying oils and other essential supplies, tourist vehicles and bikes were all stopped by Border Roads Organization (BRO) to avoid any mishaps.

Men from the trucks, our driver and few locals from our bus got down, went up ahead and assisted in clearing the roads. They seem to know only too well that time is of utmost importance in the mountain roads and did just the essential for everyone’s safety.  After all, living by these mountains brings humility in these people.

The long halt at this altitude is a bit worrisome for many but we are not the ones to worry so we hopped out of the bus to help and to soak in the nature around us. The stark contrast of these high altitudes (3530m/11649 ft is the height at Zozila pass) to the city plains is gigantic.

Gigantic mountain ranges enroute Zojila Pass

Valley view from the landslide spot, Amarnath yatri campsite seen below

One needs to see in person to understand it completely. From where we stood as we looked down the valley we could see the river curling up and on its banks there were white tents pitched in huge numbers. These are made for Amarnath yatris is what we understood from a local traveling along with us. They were so miniscule in size when seen from above which made me wonder how colossal these mountains must look from below.

A quick photo shoot ensued, before we got back into our bus on a cue from our driver. In this leg of journey, I was touched by random acts of kindness many a times.  Trucks and local driven vehicles stopped to give way to herds of sheep walking down the road, to ensure that these animals don’t slip down the valley and meet their fate. Shepherds to me seemed like the eyes and ears of these mountains .

Tales of similar nature are a plenty in these mountain terrains where one lives in conjunction with nature.

Nothing is certain in such high altitudes according to our driver. He was thankful that the traffic cleared and we could move ahead. For us the humongous mountains came alive when we were crossing them. It was a close shave at a few places but with the expert driving skills there isn't much to worry.

These mountain ranges seemed to be ever changing, thanks to our actions. The more we travel in our individual vehicles through these mountains the more harm we cause them. Somewhere I am happy that we chose to go via the available public transport which is the least bit I could do to save this ecosystem that is under constant threat.

It was somehow very sad to see few vehicles traveling from neighboring cities and states not following the rules of mountain roads, even when there was a landslide.  What is the point in creating a double line in the mountain pass. I get it that you want to reach early but what do you do reaching early? Isn't it all about the journey and not so much about the destination when in the mountains. I hope this terrain and people change their behavior for the common good. Slowly but steadily we were moving ahead and I could see the path that we just crossed. It truly is marvelous. It again reminded me how huge nature is.

Road or no road, we did travel through this (look closer, spot two vehicles)

Travelling in the autumn months has its perks. You get to see different shades on the mountains. The green is replaced by golden yellow, orange, purple and red shades at places. After we crossed Zojila pass we were welcomed by these shades. 

Autumn fast approaching here

Further ahead we could see Zojila War Memorial but being in a public transport we could only get a view of it as the bus whizzed past it. I paid my tributes for these real unsung heroes who have laid their life protecting our country.



It’s been hours since we have been travelling and after our pit stop at Kangan there has been a couple of breaks but those didn’t provide much of an opportunity to find something to eat. Our earlier travels spread over the numerous years had prepared us well for the hunger pangs during such long journeys. Small eats ranging from rich luscious chocolates to crispy snacks were brought out from our bags and we started savoring them.

Almost like reading our minds, our driver announced that we will soon be approaching Drass but it would be ideal if we could proceed further to a hotel en route Kargil where we could have late but sumptuous lunch. Little did we know then that this fast approaching en route hotel is an hour or more after Drass. Nevertheless we didn’t have much to complain as we were thoroughly enjoying the changed landscape. The stark contrast from luscious green to huge dry barren mountains is something no words can explain well enough to be understood by someone who hasn’t been there or seen something similar. I will try my best with a photograph if that helps.

Change in landscape as we were entering Drass

It is a very hard terrain and it is beyond my imagination how men at war fought here night and day to save us and our country. Salute to the heroes in real life. Seeing the Kargil war memorial brought loads of emotions and unspoken love for these men in uniform who sacrificed their lives for us to live in bliss. I was so filled with pain and love at the same time that my eyes welled up. I became preoccupied with these clamoring thoughts that I didn’t notice our bus pulling over to stop for lunch.

We stopped in front of Selame Drive in Restaurant. Apparently, it’s run by friends and relatives of the driver and he was only meaning well to get business to this restaurant. It had an amazing view with a river running in full glory right in front of it and we had nothing to complain. To our surprise the food was hot and tasted yumm with the vegetarian spread on offer. We ate our lunch fast and headed to the river to soak in our souls and feet while others were still relishing their meal. Gee, the current was strong and the climb down was steep, but it didn’t unsettle us. The trio just about touched the river bank when the bus honked loud many a times indicating it’s time to move on. Ending our short break abruptly, we got back to our seats for our journey ahead.

Our plans were changing and it was almost decided that we would spend the night at Kargil just like other passengers but instead of boarding the same bus early morning we would only happily move into a different and exciting destination the next day. All this though depended on two things, us getting a good accommodation to see us through the night and securing a good taxi to take us to our new destination. With hopes high we traveled along and soon came upon a security check at a post. After passport validation and entry of details of foreign nationals we were getting ready for our remaining leg of the journey. This pit stop allowed for a break for nature call for most travelers but I never knew it would turn out to be a shocker for me. I had read about this but somehow didn’t believe that I would witness it. Well, I am talking about dry toilets. For someone who hasn’t seen or heard about this it would be utterly shocking to see one. A word of advice if I may, it’s best not to use them.

High altitude habitats open up a lot of new vistas and touches ones soul lovingly yet strongly. It brings in hope to every person and you would agree more when you see what I saw: grass growing on the rocks when there is no other sign of vegetation, sheep trying hard to reach the edges of a cliff to reach to these grass to feed on them, lone hutment beneath an overhanging rock that forms a natural roof and protection. I am truly amazed and in wonder as I look out on a signboard indicating that this has been the second coldest place on earth that has been inhabited. Apparently, it touched -50 degrees at some time and the winters here are extremely harsh even today.

Overwhelmed by the changed landscape since morning and tired by the long journey I rested a while immersed in some random thoughts. I must have drifted into a slumber for I woke up to a lot of noise and found out that we were entering Kargil. It was illuminated both by the natural light and electricity. The small town of Kargil was buzzing with activity; markets were filled with men, women and children, carrying loads of things in hands and baskets. These I learned later, are people from farther away places who visit here monthly or every few months, in summer, to sell or buy items or are visiting families at Kargil or Leh or in between these places.

The calmer part of Kargil that I enjoyed with the 

I am touched once again by their humility and simplicity. We alighted from the bus in the Kargil bus stand and split into two teams to enquire about accommodation and travel for the next day. We agreed to meet up a couple of hours later in the same place and update each other about the progress. As luck would favor it, everything panned out smoothly, our accommodation was done, dinner was getting ready and a taxi driver agreed to take us to Zanskar Valley early next morning. What could bring more joy than these small things falling in place? Now this is why I so much love unplanned travels. It has its own thrills and pleasures with so much unknown till the last moment.

Well, there is a minor setback and we could confirm to our driver about tomorrow’s plan only after paying a visit to the doctor. Kartik has been developing a few blisters in his mouth that isn’t allowing him to drink or eat anything. Given the high altitude and the place that we are planning to visit tomorrow we couldn’t let this slip by us unnoticed. We headed straight to the market in search of a doctor and after three unsuccessful attempts we found one, who prescribed a few medicines and shared a few experiences of treating patients especially travelers. After his assurance, we confirmed our plans and headed straight to our accommodation for dinner was awaiting us.

 

To my surprise, my partner had ordered for a bowl of fresh apricots from the garden. I don’t know how he managed it but I absolutely and thoroughly enjoyed every bit of it. These were golden yellow and orange and so perfectly ripe that one bit would transform you into a new world. By now you would have known that a day can bring in as much joy as you want….It has been a great day and like all good days this one too ended in a good night’s rest.

Some Useful tips:

Carry chocolates, fruit cakes and candies in your long journey from Srinagar to Kargil especially if you are using a public transport like a bus or a shared taxi. You never know when you could use them.

Help BRO if at all possible else the least you could do is not obstruct traffic. Adhere to mountain road rules; do not overtake to form a double line especially when there is a traffic jam.

Speak to a driver from Zanskar on his return journey to the valley from Kargil if you are planning to visit there, as you will get better rates.

Accommodation is available in loads around the bus stand and its best if you could find one closer there, enquire if need be with the locals or your bus/taxi driver. It saves you money and travel to and from the bus stand.

Try food at the drive in Selame restaurant. It sure tasted yumm and the quality was good. Also, it gives you an awesome view of the river.