Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 5 - Around Padum in Karsha, Stongdey and Zangla

Yesterday, after the long, arduous and the most beautiful journey of my lifetime, we had reached Padum and it only seemed to welcome us more, with an amazing adventure filled night hike and a jaw dropping galaxy view. What we weren’t aware of then, was that electricity is available only for a short four hours a day. It wouldn’t have mattered much to our exhausted bodies which had already spread itself onto the warmth of the mattresses.

After a well rested night, we woke up pretty much after the sun was out bright and sparkling. Attempting to charge our phones made us recollect that electricity is available only for a very short duration. If you think, life must be really tough without electricity; you will be in for a surprise.  Life is very much in harmony with nature and people are content with their little or miniscule possessions.

Enjoying a lovely homemade spread, we looked into the recommendations from locals and decided to spend this day in the nearby monasteries and with the locals around it. Having no means of transportation with us, our best attempt was to hire a taxi to take the four of us around the monasteries and the villages en route. Dawa helped us with the same as he was resting for the day.

The small white patch is the Karsha monastery

After a short ride, beyond Padum market, a beautiful view of Karsha monastery awaited us. The gompa was perched beautifully atop a rugged hill with its whitewashed structures arranged so majestically on the mountain walls. Tar roads led up to the entry gate of the monastery, from where one has to hike up the narrow cemented pathway that passes through houses and quaint gardens. The climb was steep but every inch of it offered something of delight. We happened to see a few foreigners staying in the houses along with the lamas. A couple of them were teaching at the schools in the valley below and one at Karsha itself.

Further hike up the narrow tree lined pathway brought us to the entrance of the two storied monastery. At the central courtyard a few lamas were busy with their chores. An elderly lama was around and was very pleased to see visitors. He signaled to us that the roof had collapsed earlier and so the restoration work has been ongoing for quite some time now. He offered to walk us around willingly, showed us the restoration work in progress and briefly spoke about origins and current state of the monastery.

Once inside, we spent a lot of time in silence, observing a few artists at work, creating and preserving the beautiful wall paintings that very urgently needed restoration. One of the artists, volunteering his time here, gave us his insights to the paintings in hushed tones, so as to not disturb the peace of the environment and the lamas. He mentioned of staying in the monastery for the last six months and highlighted the urgency to finish work here before the harsh winters arrive.

Within the prayer hall we observed a beautiful throne reserved for the head lama. Nearby, there were shrines housing numerous statues of Buddha. There was so much calm and peace felt inside that we could stand watching the day unfold, till our legs fell.

View from the rooftop of Karsha monastery

After observing the murals and other artifacts, we moved outside to what was left of the collapsed roof, from where one could have stunning views of the village and valley below. I must have stood there for long, as I realized that it was just me up there while the others had alighted already.

Valley and mountain view from the monastery entrance

As I took a few steps down I could see the others and hoped to catch up with them once completely below. I alighted and walked through the open courtyard where the lamas around looked up for a brief moment and bent back to their chores. Further ahead, there was still no sign of the others or the elderly lama who had accompanied us.

Wondering where they may have vanished, I started to look in the direction from where I heard hushed voices and two smiling faces of kids emerged. We couldn’t talk due to language barriers but connected so beautifully through our hearts. They were curious about my whereabouts and I was about them. Through few signs, we seemed to agree to capture our moment together in a photo. Their smiling faces are etched forever in my memory. An innocent, pure and yet a strange love has filled me that day in Karsha.

My little friends at Karsha

Hearing the giggles that turned into loud laughter, the elderly lama appeared in front of us. He held them both together to his sides and they appeared to be very happy together. My curiosity got triggered and upon inquiry, I was told that kids as old as one year are sometimes left in the care of the monasteries. Poverty seems to be the main cause and the inability to care for their children pushes parents to leave their kids with the monasteries, which educate them up to 8^th and/or 10^th. Beyond which, kids have the choice to stay with the monasteries and continue their studies to become a monk or to pursue any other field of their interest.

They may not have all the worldly possessions, but they are the most happiest and pure I have seen so far. Evidently, every moment in Zanskar started to become precious for me. Bidding adieus, I walked down to the taxi, naturally believing that I am be the last one up here, while the others had already reached the taxi. Well, I was wrong; they hadn’t and must still be up somewhere. I once again climbed my way up the cemented pathway. Midway I was invited for food and at the same time I spotted my husband and friends alighting. Thanking for the offer of food, I looked at my companions. They jumped on me, on why I hadn’t accompanied them to the monastery school which had lovely kids of all ages in the classroom. Well, I had my share of education and love from the two kids, who I met. Apparently they had come out of the same classroom that I seemed to have missed.

Feeling happy and light in heart, we climbed down together, sat on a stone bench and watched the majestic views of the valley surrounded by the mountains. We met a few riders from Nagpur and exchanged pleasantries. On our way back, we offered ride to a foreigner, who, like most of the travelers in Padum, was walking from Karsha to Padum. He was thankful for the lift and offered us his share of wisdom on staying longer in Padum. He apparently is staying in the monastery teaching at a local school and helping build it as well.

We headed back to our guest room for lunch. Post lunch, our plans were to visit Stongdey Monastery, Zangla village and the nunnery.  Post an early lunch we had a quick tour around the town, including the Phodong, Dalai Lama’s guest house, that we could see from outside.

On the way up to Stongdey

Stongdey Monastery is easily a 3 to 4 hour hike from Padum. Thanks to our taxi it took us a little less than an hour to reach there. The roads were in bad shape, as the recent floods had washed off a bridge and most parts of the roads adjacent to the river. Also, the ongoing road construction that will provide direct connectivity to Leh and Darcha added to further delay.

The monastery itself is nestled on a high rocky outcrop and offers stunning views of the village and valley below. On our ascent, we met an old man who was carrying wooden logs that appeared too heavy for his tiny frame. He was gathering woods to his home and we immediately offered to help which he didn’t refuse. All this communication happened in sign language only. Helping him made me feel very happy and I understood that my happiness lies in the happiness of others. Isn’t this what my husband tells me often (to help others)? I guess it's okay to listen to your husband once in a while.

View of the village and valley from Stongdey Monastery

As we entered the monastery the main temple was closed due to a conference that was in progress. Everyone from the monastery was involved in it and so we had to wait a while for the same to be over. This gave us opportunity to go around the monastery and enjoy the spectacular views of the mountains around the valley. A group of men and women along with the monks gathered together for photo, post the conference.

Panoramic view of the valley from Stongdey monastery

We were informed later that the conference was being held with most of the monasteries in this region, in view of creating awareness for conservation of snow leopards. A woman from the NGO, informed us that snow leopards usually reach to these monasteries in search of food and the monasteries at times offer them food. Their mission is to instruct the monks on what and how to offer as well as inform them of the sightings. After helping them with their group photograph, we entered the temple only to be amazed by the gorgeous paintings adorning its interior walls.

Stongdey Monastery

A small group of kids who were staying in this monastery appeared diffident than their counterparts in Karsha. Some were friendly and came together for a photo, on request of my husband, who seemed to connect so easily with them. After sharing the dose of toffees and chocolates, we left Stongdey feeling grateful for our blessings.

Zanskari kids studying at Stongdey

As we exited, we had a very funny moment. Our friends had moved ahead to the taxi and we took a moment to soak in the enchanting beauty of the landscape. We decided to have our photo clicked here and needed someone to take it for us. As we saw a monk walking our way, we showed him signs asking him to take a photo of us. He smiled acknowledging and came stood next to me posing to the camera. My husband clicked a photo nevertheless understanding the miscommunication and brought the camera to him showing signs once again to take our photo. This time around, as I had stepped aside, he stood there with my husband, smiling for the camera. I had no choice but to oblige and clicked their photo together. After he left, we had to get our selfie, which didn't offer a great view of the landscape but left an everlasting memory of this incident. 

Further ahead, we went to Zangla fort, (which is nothing but in ruins comprising of huge rocks) Zangla village and the Byangchub Choling Zangla Nunnery, which was at the end of the road. We encountered a couple of school buses enroute. Kids were being picked up from Zangla village to study in the schools at Padum. I was very happy for this bus facility; as otherwise, they would end up walking this distance to learn.

At the nunnery, there was a small group of friendly woman including a 3 year old kid. One, took us into the temple which is also their prayer hall where they recite every morning and evening. They invited us for a tea but we politely refused, appreciating their hospitality and offered them the remaining chocolates.

I came to know that the kid is staying in the care of her aunt who is a nun here, as her own parents, are busy in their fields during these summer months, in preparation for the winter. The nuns were a mixed age group here and coexisted peacefully. Their central kitchen is also their living room and the conditions here aren’t that great, yet there were beautiful smiles on each face. There is absolute peace and bliss in each of them and it seemed to catch upon us too. 

I found the below beautiful saying from Dalai Lama inside their temple and wondered how this world could be if each of us followed it in the least possible way.

We spent an evening watching the villagers, going about their chores. They weren’t intimidated by our presence but rather found it funny that we were watching them. Wherever we looked, smiles and happy faces is all we could see. There is so much to learn from them and there was such less time. We reached our guest room as the natural light started dwindling for the day, thankful for a very memorable day that will remain with us for many years to come.

Zangla village seen from a distance

Back at our guest house, we kept mostly to ourselves and it felt very good, as we were filled with happy emotions from our day. I remembered to keep our phones and power banks on charge while the electricity was on. And while at it, I wondered how Padum will be a few years from now, especially after it is connected by road with Leh and Darcha. Will the charm and innocence of these villages change? Only time can answer to this. One thing I am sure of is that it wouldn’t be anymore the remotest village of this region. 

As we settled back in our rooms after dinner, I had mixed feelings about our travel here. While I fell in love with Zanskar's landscape, culture, its remoteness and its warm people, I also fell in love with the simplicity and humbleness that they taught me even without uttering a word. I truly began to appreciate the small things and comforts in life including the basic necessity such as electricity. For me, the people of Zanskar, who have learnt to live in union with nature will always have a special place in my heart.  

Some useful tips:

1. Carry loads of chocolates to distribute to the kids you will meet on your way. Distributing these will make you and the receiver happy.

2. If you plan to help these kids, you could opt to donate money to the monastery or you could carry note books, pens, pencils and books for the kids. They absolutely love these gifts.

3. Choose to talk to locals in the sign language and am sure you will learn something new even without uttering any words.