Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 3 - Srinagar to Kargil via Zojila pass

A new morning and what is more exciting is that we are now proceeding to the Ladakh region, the land of Julley.  

“7.30 am the bus leaves so report here by 7” was our instruction from Srinagar TRC. We reached at 7 am and the bus was loaded from the rear to the middle with huge sacks. I was confused if I got the wrong bus and rechecked at the counter. ‘No madam that is the right number that I gave you and for the day that is the only bus leaving for Leh’. Further enquiry with the driver confirmed that we will be travelling with the sacks behind us till Leh. Driver went on “What do I tell you about our livelihoods in these mountains? These buses carry a lot apart from travelers.” These are ‘Dak’ (meaning postal items, letters and parcels) and it is their usual way of being delivered to the office in the higher altitude. We were speechless yet smiling thinking about these silent companions who would accompany us on our maiden journey from Srinagar to Leh.

The famous bus that carried us from Srinagar to Kargil

We got on to loading our bags on the rooftop of the bus along with other passengers. Unlike in the urban cities where the driver and cleaner help us in loading our luggage on top or under as in the case of Volvo, here, you are to carry your own to the roof and secure it. One woman was requesting the men for assistance to secure her chair on top along with her other items. She mentioned that she is on a transfer to Leh and is moving quite a few things via bus. To think about a chair travelling on top of the bus reminded me of the scene in the movie ‘Piku’ where Amitabh’s chair is tied on top of the hired car. Laughing for a moment I forgot completely about it. Dev climbed down and introduced me to a new found friend, Raghav, as the bus started on its journey. It was interesting to know that we had a few things in common apart from our passion to travel; language, food habits and workplace are to name a few. We got into chatting, getting to know about each other, travel plans and so on till we were disturbed by shouting. All that we could make sense of was something fell off the bus. Imagine our shock as the bus had been on its journey for not even 10 minutes and there something fell from the roof already. Few passengers and driver went scouting for the lost item while the others climbed to see if the rest was secured tight. Those who went in search came back ripped in laughter as the chair that sat on top of all other luggage flew straight into the drain. A couple of them climbed down the bridge that we just crossed to get to it. This time the chair was brought inside the bus. Fellow passengers burst into laughter seeing the now rescued flying chair. I could sense that this journey will be as interesting as it gets.

As we exited Srinagar, this view awaited us

Dirt roads and town crowds soon disappeared to inviting greenery and beautiful landscapes dotted with striking homes and delightful people. The route from Srinagar to Sonamarg is enthralling at its best. Every turn offers so much beauty that you are ever so happy to receive. Lush green mountains, paddy fields, water bodies, apple trees and people only add more beauty to the already incredible sight. Man made water ways in the hills were plenty and we understood from the locals that these are essential for both supplying water and to prevent erosion/flash floods.  The valley is justly called the paradise on earth. Everything here is beautiful and you are left awestruck with the creator’s generosity. I could never take my eyes off the roads for the river was accompanying us all along.

This river kept running alongside the road forever

Our first pit stop came at Kangan. We alighted for a hot cup of tea and some condiments. Kangan has nothing much but a couple of wayside eateries that come along with the river in their background. If you are travelling on your own vehicle or a hired taxi, spend a few hours by the river devouring its cool, clear water. Back in the city you do not get this my friend. My spirits were lifted high both by the tea and the pleasant weather.

Soon we were moving on and started gaining altitude. The scenic beauty made me feel so light and soothened my nerves. I noticed we were entering Sonamarg and true to its name, it beholds a lot of beauty, aqua green river, blue sky filled with snow white clouds, mountain ranges capped with snow, green grasslands where the wild horse is grazing, tourists are playing and tall trees are covering the length and breadth of the mountains….Mesmerized completely with the sights around, we sat back and relaxed as our bus continued on further.

As we were entering Sonamarg

We were gaining altitude and there was change in the landscape. The lush green carpeted mountains were vanishing to dry barren mountains and I realized Zozila pass is fast approaching. As I was soaking in this beauteous sight, the wheels braked and I could see a long line of vehicles ahead of our bus.

Landslide affecting traffic as we were approaching Zojila Pass

Men helping in clearing the rocks that rolled down from above

You know, everything happens for a reason and I am a firm believer of this. There was a land slide that had caused the traffic to be stalled. Trucks carrying oils and other essential supplies, tourist vehicles and bikes were all stopped by Border Roads Organization (BRO) to avoid any mishaps.

Men from the trucks, our driver and few locals from our bus got down, went up ahead and assisted in clearing the roads. They seem to know only too well that time is of utmost importance in the mountain roads and did just the essential for everyone’s safety.  After all, living by these mountains brings humility in these people.

The long halt at this altitude is a bit worrisome for many but we are not the ones to worry so we hopped out of the bus to help and to soak in the nature around us. The stark contrast of these high altitudes (3530m/11649 ft is the height at Zozila pass) to the city plains is gigantic.

Gigantic mountain ranges enroute Zojila Pass

Valley view from the landslide spot, Amarnath yatri campsite seen below

One needs to see in person to understand it completely. From where we stood as we looked down the valley we could see the river curling up and on its banks there were white tents pitched in huge numbers. These are made for Amarnath yatris is what we understood from a local traveling along with us. They were so miniscule in size when seen from above which made me wonder how colossal these mountains must look from below.

A quick photo shoot ensued, before we got back into our bus on a cue from our driver. In this leg of journey, I was touched by random acts of kindness many a times.  Trucks and local driven vehicles stopped to give way to herds of sheep walking down the road, to ensure that these animals don’t slip down the valley and meet their fate. Shepherds to me seemed like the eyes and ears of these mountains .

Tales of similar nature are a plenty in these mountain terrains where one lives in conjunction with nature.

Nothing is certain in such high altitudes according to our driver. He was thankful that the traffic cleared and we could move ahead. For us the humongous mountains came alive when we were crossing them. It was a close shave at a few places but with the expert driving skills there isn't much to worry.

These mountain ranges seemed to be ever changing, thanks to our actions. The more we travel in our individual vehicles through these mountains the more harm we cause them. Somewhere I am happy that we chose to go via the available public transport which is the least bit I could do to save this ecosystem that is under constant threat.

It was somehow very sad to see few vehicles traveling from neighboring cities and states not following the rules of mountain roads, even when there was a landslide.  What is the point in creating a double line in the mountain pass. I get it that you want to reach early but what do you do reaching early? Isn't it all about the journey and not so much about the destination when in the mountains. I hope this terrain and people change their behavior for the common good. Slowly but steadily we were moving ahead and I could see the path that we just crossed. It truly is marvelous. It again reminded me how huge nature is.

Road or no road, we did travel through this (look closer, spot two vehicles)

Travelling in the autumn months has its perks. You get to see different shades on the mountains. The green is replaced by golden yellow, orange, purple and red shades at places. After we crossed Zojila pass we were welcomed by these shades. 

Autumn fast approaching here

Further ahead we could see Zojila War Memorial but being in a public transport we could only get a view of it as the bus whizzed past it. I paid my tributes for these real unsung heroes who have laid their life protecting our country.



It’s been hours since we have been travelling and after our pit stop at Kangan there has been a couple of breaks but those didn’t provide much of an opportunity to find something to eat. Our earlier travels spread over the numerous years had prepared us well for the hunger pangs during such long journeys. Small eats ranging from rich luscious chocolates to crispy snacks were brought out from our bags and we started savoring them.

Almost like reading our minds, our driver announced that we will soon be approaching Drass but it would be ideal if we could proceed further to a hotel en route Kargil where we could have late but sumptuous lunch. Little did we know then that this fast approaching en route hotel is an hour or more after Drass. Nevertheless we didn’t have much to complain as we were thoroughly enjoying the changed landscape. The stark contrast from luscious green to huge dry barren mountains is something no words can explain well enough to be understood by someone who hasn’t been there or seen something similar. I will try my best with a photograph if that helps.

Change in landscape as we were entering Drass

It is a very hard terrain and it is beyond my imagination how men at war fought here night and day to save us and our country. Salute to the heroes in real life. Seeing the Kargil war memorial brought loads of emotions and unspoken love for these men in uniform who sacrificed their lives for us to live in bliss. I was so filled with pain and love at the same time that my eyes welled up. I became preoccupied with these clamoring thoughts that I didn’t notice our bus pulling over to stop for lunch.

We stopped in front of Selame Drive in Restaurant. Apparently, it’s run by friends and relatives of the driver and he was only meaning well to get business to this restaurant. It had an amazing view with a river running in full glory right in front of it and we had nothing to complain. To our surprise the food was hot and tasted yumm with the vegetarian spread on offer. We ate our lunch fast and headed to the river to soak in our souls and feet while others were still relishing their meal. Gee, the current was strong and the climb down was steep, but it didn’t unsettle us. The trio just about touched the river bank when the bus honked loud many a times indicating it’s time to move on. Ending our short break abruptly, we got back to our seats for our journey ahead.

Our plans were changing and it was almost decided that we would spend the night at Kargil just like other passengers but instead of boarding the same bus early morning we would only happily move into a different and exciting destination the next day. All this though depended on two things, us getting a good accommodation to see us through the night and securing a good taxi to take us to our new destination. With hopes high we traveled along and soon came upon a security check at a post. After passport validation and entry of details of foreign nationals we were getting ready for our remaining leg of the journey. This pit stop allowed for a break for nature call for most travelers but I never knew it would turn out to be a shocker for me. I had read about this but somehow didn’t believe that I would witness it. Well, I am talking about dry toilets. For someone who hasn’t seen or heard about this it would be utterly shocking to see one. A word of advice if I may, it’s best not to use them.

High altitude habitats open up a lot of new vistas and touches ones soul lovingly yet strongly. It brings in hope to every person and you would agree more when you see what I saw: grass growing on the rocks when there is no other sign of vegetation, sheep trying hard to reach the edges of a cliff to reach to these grass to feed on them, lone hutment beneath an overhanging rock that forms a natural roof and protection. I am truly amazed and in wonder as I look out on a signboard indicating that this has been the second coldest place on earth that has been inhabited. Apparently, it touched -50 degrees at some time and the winters here are extremely harsh even today.

Overwhelmed by the changed landscape since morning and tired by the long journey I rested a while immersed in some random thoughts. I must have drifted into a slumber for I woke up to a lot of noise and found out that we were entering Kargil. It was illuminated both by the natural light and electricity. The small town of Kargil was buzzing with activity; markets were filled with men, women and children, carrying loads of things in hands and baskets. These I learned later, are people from farther away places who visit here monthly or every few months, in summer, to sell or buy items or are visiting families at Kargil or Leh or in between these places.

The calmer part of Kargil that I enjoyed with the 

I am touched once again by their humility and simplicity. We alighted from the bus in the Kargil bus stand and split into two teams to enquire about accommodation and travel for the next day. We agreed to meet up a couple of hours later in the same place and update each other about the progress. As luck would favor it, everything panned out smoothly, our accommodation was done, dinner was getting ready and a taxi driver agreed to take us to Zanskar Valley early next morning. What could bring more joy than these small things falling in place? Now this is why I so much love unplanned travels. It has its own thrills and pleasures with so much unknown till the last moment.

Well, there is a minor setback and we could confirm to our driver about tomorrow’s plan only after paying a visit to the doctor. Kartik has been developing a few blisters in his mouth that isn’t allowing him to drink or eat anything. Given the high altitude and the place that we are planning to visit tomorrow we couldn’t let this slip by us unnoticed. We headed straight to the market in search of a doctor and after three unsuccessful attempts we found one, who prescribed a few medicines and shared a few experiences of treating patients especially travelers. After his assurance, we confirmed our plans and headed straight to our accommodation for dinner was awaiting us.

 

To my surprise, my partner had ordered for a bowl of fresh apricots from the garden. I don’t know how he managed it but I absolutely and thoroughly enjoyed every bit of it. These were golden yellow and orange and so perfectly ripe that one bit would transform you into a new world. By now you would have known that a day can bring in as much joy as you want….It has been a great day and like all good days this one too ended in a good night’s rest.

Some Useful tips:

Carry chocolates, fruit cakes and candies in your long journey from Srinagar to Kargil especially if you are using a public transport like a bus or a shared taxi. You never know when you could use them.

Help BRO if at all possible else the least you could do is not obstruct traffic. Adhere to mountain road rules; do not overtake to form a double line especially when there is a traffic jam.

Speak to a driver from Zanskar on his return journey to the valley from Kargil if you are planning to visit there, as you will get better rates.

Accommodation is available in loads around the bus stand and its best if you could find one closer there, enquire if need be with the locals or your bus/taxi driver. It saves you money and travel to and from the bus stand.

Try food at the drive in Selame restaurant. It sure tasted yumm and the quality was good. Also, it gives you an awesome view of the river. 

Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 2 - Gulmarg

Day two of our Valley visit, we decided to go farther in search of greener pastures. Oh what’s that saying “Grass on the other side is always green”, well if green is what you are looking for, head straight to Gulmarg to be embraced by the rolling clouds and luscious meadows (remember we went in the month of September).

Around golf course in Gulmarg

A quick 90 minutes from Srinagar, through the apple orchards and paddy fields will lead you uphill to Gulmarg. The drop in temperature confirms that you are gaining altitude.

Somewhere before Tangmarg, sights on either side of the roads were beautiful

If you are on a budget, board one of the regular buses carrying locals till Tangmarg and find another from there to Gulmarg. If your adventurous self peeks out, choose to ride a pony or walk along with the locals through the forest trail starting from Tangmarg. What could be more enchanting than walking through forests with the locals listening to their tales? For someone who is meticulous and well planned, reserve your seats in advance at TRC Srinagar for the Gulmarg tour package, which includes to and fro tickets.

Somewhere between Tangmarg and Gulmarg

Irrespective of your choice, you would love the Gondola ride for sure, unless of course you had already been in one. Gondola is operated in two stages and in intervals of every hour starting from 9. You could book your tickets at the online counter from Srinagar Airport. The lady managing this counter is very helpful and when probed further provides additional information about the rides. The fare for stage 1 is Rs 600 and for stage 2 it is Rs 800. If it’s a clean weather day both the stages will be operated, else it all depends on your luck to go up even till stage 1.

As for us, we had a long wait before the Gondola could be operated due to the snowfall uphill the previous day. We decided to use this time to our best and ventured into the meadows, interacting with the locals. Words cannot explain what eyes have seen. Maharaja Palace was under construction but it offers a breathtaking view of the valley below.

View of the valley from Maharaja Palace

There is also a small temple of religious importance to the locals. We decided to skip this and chattered on about their livelihood. Shepherds who are basically nomads move up to the higher grasslands for 2 to 3 months in summer to feed their cattle. Their humility and simple love touches your soul. We had the privilege of visiting their temporary huts and it is truly a sight to behold.

 
 

Relishing the homemade breads to go with tea we chatted on about various things under the sky. My constant thought was, would I live here, with mountains as my backyard, small streams as my natural source of water, fresh cold air to breathe and unconnected from the rest of the world. I don’t know for sure if I could be put up in the same place for the rest of my life but a true nomadic life just like theirs, which keeps moving every season, most certainly interests me.
 

After almost a two and a half hour delay, the Gondola was opened for rides and you must have seen our faces. Well only when we went in for our ride did we know that the rides were operated for that day only till stage 1. Stage 1 would do for now as I know already that I must come here again. We hopped onto our Gondola and thoroughly enjoyed the ride. When did we become kids? Weeds and shrubs growing on mud houses, gondolas on their way downwards, shepherds and their families, locals walking up the mountains and other such small sights enroute brought excitement.

View from Gondola

Soon, we exited at stage 1 and were welcomed to the splendid display of color; green pastures, blue sky, snow capped mountains and the valley below. A picture is worth a thousand words they say, but this still doesn’t sum up the beauty in its entirety.

View outside stage 1 exit

Rolling clouds masking the mountain range

With growling tummies we decided to head to the pop up stalls for a quick bite. It was a delight that we had temporary roofs above our tables as no sooner than we sank our tired legs into the folds of the chairs, thunders and lightning started rocking the mountains.  Before we realized, it started raining. Hold on, these weren’t rain drops that came down, they were ice pellets. 

 

“It must be snowing above” said the elderly gentleman pointing to the hills above. He was the owner of the stall that we walked into. He welcomed us heartily with the Kahwah. I cannot insist more on its benefits. You need to drink one to know what I mean. It was still raining when we had finished our lunch and rather than deciding to sit on these chairs we decided to gather ice from the tents above us. We were all smiles holding the white gold; we couldn’t be more thrilled for a fantastic day so far.

Hotels in the plains are surrounded by mountains offering a breathtaking 360 degree view 

Soon the rides were being stopped due to inclement weather and we had to catch ours downwards. As we left Gulmarg and proceeded towards Tangmarg, beauteous sights beheld us. 

As seen from the view point between Gulmarg and Tangmarg

Once we reached Tangmarg, our driver surprised us by taking us to an apple orchard. After listening and witnessing for the first time the numerous variety of apples, we also had an awesome time with apple picking in there.
 

Reaching Srinagar earlier on gave us another opportunity to visit Dal Lake but not before booking our tickets to Leh for our journey next day. 

Houseboats in Dal Lake

Ready for a Shikara ride?

We went on exploring Dal Lake in the evening before bidding adieu to Srinagar. Exhausted with happiness after an awesome day we proceeded to our accommodation for a good night’s rest.

Some useful tips

There are few options for hotels and tourist bungalows to choose from for one’s stay. If you are visiting here in the season, a couple of days stay here is a must. You could spend your time by soaking in the beautiful vistas around you or by taking a leisurely walk to explore the park and its fun activities such as Zorbing.

Food can be bought in your hotels or from the pop up hotels at stage 1. They are simple but as delicious as one can find at this altitude. Kahwah is essential to keep you warm and what better place to sip it than in those pop up food stalls right outside stage 1.  Also, Tangmarg provides you the best opportunity to buy apples from this region. Green apple at 40/kg was a great deal for someone from the plains so we bought them for our journey ahead.

Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 1 - In Srinagar

Half a decade of ache and craving led to an awe inspiring trip to the Himalayan Mountains. The northern most state in India, Jammu & Kashmir, has been on our minds for a really long time now. Planning started well in advance and it was proposed that Dev and I will self drive for the entire duration of this trip. Well, it should have been an end of planning with me listing places of interest, route maps, distances and fuel stations; but it sure wasn’t. Our plans changed and we decided to explore these places through the available local transport while enjoying the company of like minded travelers and locals. In a state where the mountains rule, one can’t do much than hoping and praying for clearer roads. 

Flying into Srinagar on a clear sky day is the best thing that can happen to anyone as the snow clad peaks and the never ending mountain ranges captivate your soul. We sure were enthralled. While it was only natural to expect an equally beautiful sight on our ride from Airport to the city, we were in for a disappointment as there was a lot of construction work in progress and all that we saw was covered in layers of dust. A quick 30 min ride later we found ourselves in Dal Gate which is the best place to find an accommodation, if one hasn’t booked in advance. From the lush green gardens to the Golden Dal Lake, Srinagar lures you to seek more of what it has to offer and we weren’t the ones to ignore it. We reached our accommodation, dropped our bags and jumped right back to explore the valley.

Kartik, Dev’s cousin who was accompanying us suggested we visit the centuries old famous cave temple atop Sankaracharya Hill. Shankaracharya Hill gets its name from the philosopher Shankaracharya who is said to have meditated here several centuries ago during his visit to Kashmir. This beautiful hill rises up behind the boulevard and offers a breathtaking view of the Dal Lake below and the never ending Zabarwan mountain ranges. Choices to go up the hill are a plenty; one could walk up the hill, though I must warn you not to, especially if you are running short on time, take a mini bus from the Dal Gate or even from the check post before the uphill climb ie if you still find space to squeeze yourself in or better still for those game for comforts, go ahead and hire a taxi to take you up. Whichever mode of commute chosen, the last mile (a few hundred stairs, of course) will still be on foot but I assure you that every bit of this climb is worth the breathtaking view of the Dal Lake. Its true majesty one can understand only when seen for oneself. I realize I could be here for hours together soaking in the beauty around me. Little wonder then that Sri Shankaracharya chose this spot for meditation.

We were in for a treat, as the day we visited there was snacks and small meal being served but as luck would favor it we could only manage to get a bite of the hot aloo bujjias and khichdi on our descent. To fill our growling tummies, we left for Mughal Durbar that was highly recommended by our driver, for an authentic Kashmiri food. If you are a pure vegetarian there isn’t any authentic Kashmiri choice of food. Of all that we tried in the vegetarian I liked the Kashmiri Naan best. We also found the place to be overrated in terms of service and quality but I must admit that in here one could get a minuscule insight into the culinary aspects of the locals. For die hard vegetarians, my recommendation is to go around the boulevard that has plenty on offer.

After a light meal, we decided to explore the renowned Mughal Gardens and Shalimar Bagh, became our unanimous choice. It is rightly called as the largest and beautiful of the gardens in this valley. A water channel lined on either side by humungous Chinar trees runs the entire length of the garden and splits it into equal halves. 

On entry we were welcomed into the old world charm combined with the modern era distractions.  To add to the quintessential charms of this garden, kids and family were playing sportily in the channel completely ignoring the signboards that read “Do not enter the channel”. We later found out from our driver that family picnics on weekends and holidays are a common sight across gardens and tourist spots.



We could see family sizes ranging anywhere from 4 to 20 seated under shades of trees with their home cooked spread of breads, biscuits and tea. Not to forget are the store bought snacks that have become the most preferred amongst kids. Dev was tempted more than once to befriend them for a cup of Kahwah and small talk. You should have seen the size of their flasks, you would be tempted too.

With no particular agenda ahead of us, we enjoyed our time at the marble pavilion and cascade of water fountains in the channel. Zabarwan mountain ranges added a beautiful background to the garden.

For me, the contrast in the warmth from the inquisitive and friendly women who came forth to speak to me inquiring my whereabouts and the shuddering cold rude scrawling on the wall was the major dampener that day. Is it the true sentiment of the young and old alike? I keep wondering even to date.

"Free Kashmir from India and Dogs"  REALLY?

After a good few hours, we decided to move on and found ourselves soon entering Nishat Bagh. It is most certainly structured differently with the terraced layout. Someone mentioned it has 12 terraces to represent the 12 zodiac signs. I didn’t bother to count. Why would I, when I am immersed in its beauty. Though it was slightly smaller, it was a complete charmer with its imposing view of the Dal Lake. When viewed from a few terraces above the garden’s entrance it creates an illusion of the gardens channel flowing in to be merged one with the Lake. We couldn’t agree more that the best time to be around here is most certainly the evening as the natural hues of the sunset started glorifying the Lake. A voice in me echoed “Today is your day to be a witness to the creator’s masterpiece”.

If your interest in garden hasn’t been quenched yet, Srinagar has more to offer. Cheshmashahi, a small garden with a natural spring, Pari Mahal, adjacent to it with glass houses and the Botanical Gardens en route Cheshmashahi are to name a few. Well, after the charm and grandeur of Shalimar and Nishat, don’t be surprised if you aren’t able to appreciate these smaller gardens that still draw in larger crowds.

Witnessing the golden lake attracted us more than anything. It is true that Dal Lake has something to offer everyone. Hop onto a Shikara and you would be swarmed by the hawkers selling food, flowers, and jewelry.

If you are not tired of refusing or obliging to all those approaching you, there are the photographers who pester you to get a quick photo of you in the Kashmiri attire while you are enjoying the ride. With our stern denial to all of them except the fruit sellers, we were soon in the calm and quiet of the lake.

As the Sun was setting, the lake transpired into Golden hues and silhouettes created a whole new story

On reaching the man-made island we did hop on to it just for a bit and were back on our Shikara to be mesmerized by the Zabarwan Mountain ranges in the distance and the lake itself. Our boatman suggested a kahwah from the floating restaurant. While we were approaching it, a cute little one with her dad rowed in to buy a few things from the restaurant boat. She was so adorable with her oar and kept rowing fully involved in the moment, not noticing us till “hello there” from us brought smile onto her. It truly is a blessing to be involved in the moment being yourself. Learn from kids, they are naturals at it.

Adorable isn't she?

Sipping our Kahwah and enjoying warmth from the setting Sun we wandered further into the interiors of the lake. Women carrying baskets of vegetables from the floating garden and hopping onto their boat is just a reminder of our innate ability to create. An entire vegetable garden on a floating land mass amidst the Dal Lake, wow, that is just amazing creativity my fellow countrymen. 

While Gliding in the waters of Dal Lake we witnessed this young woman carrying vegetables from floating garden to her boat

An entire market thrives on this lake. It is an incredible sight not to be missed

It could be rightly said that the best time to take a ride is just before sunset, where you get to enjoy a longer ride into the night. I tell you once again that Dal Lake does have a lot on offer for every kind of person that visits it. We soaked ourselves in all the glitterati of the house boats and the floating markets. We did a little bit of shopping and called it quits for the day post dinner. What a soul filling long day it has been so far. Srinagar I love you in the day and more so in the night. Days were warmer but nights became colder and made us run in search of a cozy warm bed.

Some useful tips: 

Don’t be lured by the Shikara men offering view of different points of the Lake. Upfront enquire about all the points mentioned and the individual fare to those so one can take a quick call. What would most certainly be of interest is the floating market, for all your shopping needs. You’d surprised of the spread in it. Remember to bargain hard. The best tip is to quote a price less than half of the sellers and try to settle at half or upto 70% of the price of the original quote. 

If you intend to stay in a house boat ensure you get one in the front row facing the boulevard as you could run into the boulevard early if you are getting tired of the frequenting hawkers trying to sell their wares. If you do take a stroll in the evening do so in the boulevard enjoying the shopping and the view of the lake.

Other places of interest in Srinagar include Hazrat Bal mosque, Tulip Garden (only in season), Hari Parbhat, Salim Ali National Park, Jamia Masjid, Nagin Lake, Pari Mahal, Khir Bhawani Temple. There is a recent Hop On Hop Off bus service introduced to do tours around Dal Lake. Do make an enquiry at TRC Srinagar for more details in your visit.   

Food: You would get a plenty of vegetarian and non vegetarian options around the Dal Lake. Lal Chowk area has a few good ones on offer too.

Shopping: Best bargains are in Dal Lake floating market, Lal Chowk, Boulevard, and the government handicrafts emporium near TRC in the same order.