Flying into Srinagar on a clear sky day is the best thing that can happen to anyone as the snow clad peaks and the never ending mountain ranges captivate your soul. We sure were enthralled. While it was only natural to expect an equally beautiful sight on our ride from Airport to the city, we were in for a disappointment as there was a lot of construction work in progress and all that we saw was covered in layers of dust. A quick 30 min ride later we found ourselves in Dal Gate which is the best place to find an accommodation, if one hasn’t booked in advance. From the lush green gardens to the Golden Dal Lake, Srinagar lures you to seek more of what it has to offer and we weren’t the ones to ignore it. We reached our accommodation, dropped our bags and jumped right back to explore the valley.
Kartik, Dev’s cousin who was accompanying us suggested we visit the centuries old famous cave temple atop Sankaracharya Hill. Shankaracharya Hill gets its name from the philosopher Shankaracharya who is said to have meditated here several centuries ago during his visit to Kashmir. This beautiful hill rises up behind the boulevard and offers a breathtaking view of the Dal Lake below and the never ending Zabarwan mountain ranges. Choices to go up the hill are a plenty; one could walk up the hill, though I must warn you not to, especially if you are running short on time, take a mini bus from the Dal Gate or even from the check post before the uphill climb ie if you still find space to squeeze yourself in or better still for those game for comforts, go ahead and hire a taxi to take you up. Whichever mode of commute chosen, the last mile (a few hundred stairs, of course) will still be on foot but I assure you that every bit of this climb is worth the breathtaking view of the Dal Lake. Its true majesty one can understand only when seen for oneself. I realize I could be here for hours together soaking in the beauty around me. Little wonder then that Sri Shankaracharya chose this spot for meditation.
We were in for a treat, as the day we visited there was snacks and small meal being served but as luck would favor it we could only manage to get a bite of the hot aloo bujjias and khichdi on our descent. To fill our growling tummies, we left for Mughal Durbar that was highly recommended by our driver, for an authentic Kashmiri food. If you are a pure vegetarian there isn’t any authentic Kashmiri choice of food. Of all that we tried in the vegetarian I liked the Kashmiri Naan best. We also found the place to be overrated in terms of service and quality but I must admit that in here one could get a minuscule insight into the culinary aspects of the locals. For die hard vegetarians, my recommendation is to go around the boulevard that has plenty on offer.
After a light meal, we decided to explore the renowned Mughal Gardens and Shalimar Bagh, became our unanimous choice. It is rightly called as the largest and beautiful of the gardens in this valley. A water channel lined on either side by humungous Chinar trees runs the entire length of the garden and splits it into equal halves.
On entry we were welcomed into the old world charm combined with the modern era distractions. To add to the quintessential charms of this garden, kids and family were playing sportily in the channel completely ignoring the signboards that read “Do not enter the channel”. We later found out from our driver that family picnics on weekends and holidays are a common sight across gardens and tourist spots.
We could see family sizes ranging anywhere from 4 to 20 seated under shades of trees with their home cooked spread of breads, biscuits and tea. Not to forget are the store bought snacks that have become the most preferred amongst kids. Dev was tempted more than once to befriend them for a cup of Kahwah and small talk. You should have seen the size of their flasks, you would be tempted too.
With no particular agenda ahead of us, we enjoyed our time at the marble pavilion and cascade of water fountains in the channel. Zabarwan mountain ranges added a beautiful background to the garden.
For me, the contrast in the warmth from the inquisitive and friendly women who came forth to speak to me inquiring my whereabouts and the shuddering cold rude scrawling on the wall was the major dampener that day. Is it the true sentiment of the young and old alike? I keep wondering even to date.
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| "Free Kashmir from India and Dogs" REALLY? |
After a good few hours, we decided to move on and found ourselves soon entering Nishat Bagh. It is most certainly structured differently with the terraced layout. Someone mentioned it has 12 terraces to represent the 12 zodiac signs. I didn’t bother to count. Why would I, when I am immersed in its beauty. Though it was slightly smaller, it was a complete charmer with its imposing view of the Dal Lake. When viewed from a few terraces above the garden’s entrance it creates an illusion of the gardens channel flowing in to be merged one with the Lake. We couldn’t agree more that the best time to be around here is most certainly the evening as the natural hues of the sunset started glorifying the Lake. A voice in me echoed “Today is your day to be a witness to the creator’s masterpiece”.
If your interest in garden hasn’t been quenched yet, Srinagar has more to offer. Cheshmashahi, a small garden with a natural spring, Pari Mahal, adjacent to it with glass houses and the Botanical Gardens en route Cheshmashahi are to name a few. Well, after the charm and grandeur of Shalimar and Nishat, don’t be surprised if you aren’t able to appreciate these smaller gardens that still draw in larger crowds.
Witnessing the golden lake attracted us more than anything. It is true that Dal Lake has something to offer everyone. Hop onto a Shikara and you would be swarmed by the hawkers selling food, flowers, and jewelry.
If you are not tired of refusing or obliging to all those approaching you, there are the photographers who pester you to get a quick photo of you in the Kashmiri attire while you are enjoying the ride. With our stern denial to all of them except the fruit sellers, we were soon in the calm and quiet of the lake.
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| As the Sun was setting, the lake transpired into Golden hues and silhouettes created a whole new story |
On reaching the man-made island we did hop on to it just for a bit and were back on our Shikara to be mesmerized by the Zabarwan Mountain ranges in the distance and the lake itself. Our boatman suggested a kahwah from the floating restaurant. While we were approaching it, a cute little one with her dad rowed in to buy a few things from the restaurant boat. She was so adorable with her oar and kept rowing fully involved in the moment, not noticing us till “hello there” from us brought smile onto her. It truly is a blessing to be involved in the moment being yourself. Learn from kids, they are naturals at it.
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| Adorable isn't she? |
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| While Gliding in the waters of Dal Lake we witnessed this young woman carrying vegetables from floating garden to her boat |
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| An entire market thrives on this lake. It is an incredible sight not to be missed |
It could be rightly said that the best time to take a ride is just before sunset, where you get to enjoy a longer ride into the night. I tell you once again that Dal Lake does have a lot on offer for every kind of person that visits it. We soaked ourselves in all the glitterati of the house boats and the floating markets. We did a little bit of shopping and called it quits for the day post dinner. What a soul filling long day it has been so far. Srinagar I love you in the day and more so in the night. Days were warmer but nights became colder and made us run in search of a cozy warm bed.
Some useful tips:
Don’t be lured by the Shikara men offering view of different points of the Lake. Upfront enquire about all the points mentioned and the individual fare to those so one can take a quick call. What would most certainly be of interest is the floating market, for all your shopping needs. You’d surprised of the spread in it. Remember to bargain hard. The best tip is to quote a price less than half of the sellers and try to settle at half or upto 70% of the price of the original quote.
If you intend to stay in a house boat ensure you get one in the front row facing the boulevard as you could run into the boulevard early if you are getting tired of the frequenting hawkers trying to sell their wares. If you do take a stroll in the evening do so in the boulevard enjoying the shopping and the view of the lake.
Other places of interest in Srinagar include Hazrat Bal mosque, Tulip Garden (only in season), Hari Parbhat, Salim Ali National Park, Jamia Masjid, Nagin Lake, Pari Mahal, Khir Bhawani Temple. There is a recent Hop On Hop Off bus service introduced to do tours around Dal Lake. Do make an enquiry at TRC Srinagar for more details in your visit.
Food: You would get a plenty of vegetarian and non vegetarian options around the Dal Lake. Lal Chowk area has a few good ones on offer too.
Shopping: Best bargains are in Dal Lake floating market, Lal Chowk, Boulevard, and the government handicrafts emporium near TRC in the same order.
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