Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 9 - Around Leh - Marathon, Markets and Hall of Fame

Since morning there has been an excitement in the air. It is the Ladakh Marathon today and how could we not be excited about it, especially when our fellow traveler is participating in the event. We were up very early today to witness the beginning of the run in its full glory.  Since our accommodation was right next to Shanti Stupa, which was the flag off area for the run today, we couldn't be more thrilled. 

There was a lot of hustle and bustle since early morning, thanks to all participants gathered in Shanti Stupa. To witness such energy in motion, especially when its held in the high altitude area, you really got to be lucky especially if you aren't a participant yourself. Sharp 6 am, the Marathon (42 kms) challenge participants began their run and it truly was high energy and spirit in action. This was shortly followed by half marathon (21 kms) that was equally high in energy. However, the Ladakh run for fun (7 kms) which is open to everyone ranging from students to elders, armed forces and families stationed at Leh and tourists who happen to be in Leh during the marathon time, beat the others. This had the highest energy of all and saw different kind of participants. What moved me most was the girl on the wheels, whose resolute brought so much inexplicable joy to me. Hers was the happiest face that day that's etched in my memory.

With such an energized beginning for the day, what more could you ask for. We walked into the market area for a light breakfast followed by some inquiries for further travel and shopping. By lunch time, we also visited the Ladakh tourism office and gathered additional details. We got to know that Ladakh Food Festival will be held from Sep 23, 2015 to Sep 24, 2015. Well, we will be missing it for sure for by 24th we would be very much in Delhi carrying on with our routine lives. I came across the Monastic Festival Calendar that is posted here for reference. It may come in use for many planning their travels for the next couple of years. I have been told that the Hemis festival amongst all others is grandoise. 

Rest of the day we had decided to be spent in Hall of Fame. So down the road from the tourism office we took a shared ride to another market area, from where again we took another shared ride to Hall of Fame.  It was almost three when we reached and I had goose bumps all over as we entered the place. 

In the Hall of Fame you pass through several rooms demarcated as viewing galleries where you will see photos, arms, provisions, research materials, food supplies and clothes used by our troops around Ladakh. I was mesmerized by the photos especially of our men negotiating the glacial streams, ice caves and living in such high altitude tough weather conditions. We also saw a movie showcasing the strengths, victories, challenges faced by our men around J&K during the wars and other attacks. Kudos to you brave men who stand tall day in and day out. 

Post our Hall of Fame visit, we were back in the market. Our eyes caught the attention of the below funny nameboard.This one below said same same but different. Well that is the name of the shop and it had curios that came in all sizes and shapes which were of course all different. 

 

Right opposite this shop was a small hotel which was also renting bikes. It had a collection of vintage bikes as well and this one in red was a stunning hot beauty. We walked up and down this alley and purchased ourselves some fruits, clothes, shawls and lamps as gifts.

This day went way better than expected with us enjoying a wonderful pizza in Ladakh at La Piazzetta. The ambiance and food here is beyond compare. After relishing our dinner we walked our way back to our accommodation. It was a good hike with the only nuisance being that of stray dogs  around the corner of Shanti Stupa. These dogs are known for their notorious chases and bites of which we were forewarned. After the first day here, we began carrying sticks for our own safety.

Some useful tips:

1. Best way to explore Leh is by foot. Well the other alternative is to take the shared rides along with locals and fellow tourists.

2. Explore all avenues in the markets for every nook and corner has something on offer for the needy.

3. Food is never a problem here as you find everything right from Dosa to Pizza, so don't worry that you may end up eating only Noodles.

4. Locals are very friendly and offer you suggestions about the happenings around the town so do engage in small talk with the folks you meet on your way.

5. Home stays, hotels and other accommodations are available to suit every type of budget.

6. You will find ATMs in the main markets but some days they just run out of money so be prepared to have enough at the start of your day

Jammu & Kashmir - As we saw it - Day 8 - Around Leh - LAMO, Leh Palace and Tsemo Castle

Yesterday's journey was ever so memorable and beautiful as were the previous ones. Every place seen in the past week has changed with altitude and yet each one is as beautiful as the other. J&K is truly a paradise on Earth, with its striking contrasts of barren brown mountains in Ladakh and the fertile greenery of Kashmir. Oh, one could never have enough of this place. 

Post a good night's rest, our day unfolded to another beautiful bright sunny morning. With no particular agenda on our minds, we wandered to the Leh market area exploring the many tiny shops and restaurants that filled either sides of the lanes. Our leisurely stroll took us to a junction and when we crossed it we saw many walking into a tiny lane that seemed to go up a small mountain. Our curiosity got the better of us and we decided to explore. A few steps ahead, we found a milk parlor serving fresh milk, lassi and ghee sweets. After relishing a glass of lassi, we inquired with the owner about his shop and got to know that he was the second generation owner, who is completely content with his enterprise. He indulged us in small talk sharing with us precious details of the region's tourism explosion in the recent past and the changes it brought with it. 

Taking his guidance, we took the small foot path that steadily climbed the mountain amidst the houses, in the hope to reach Leh castle, by foot. En route, we saw a few sign boards for LAMO (Ladakh Arts and Media Organisation) with interesting quotes and quirky facts and it sure triggered our interest. We entered LAMO, which is a public chartiable trust established to articulate an alternative vision for the arts and media in Ladakh. LAMO is presently housed in the center of Leh, in the premises two historical houses that are situated below the 17th century Leh Palace. These historical houses were restored by LAMO and the space from it, is now converted into galleries, offices, library, reading room, screening room, conference room and open air performance area. LAMO also conducts outreach programs, workshops, exhibitions and research and development projects showcasing Ladakh's art and culture. We didn't realize it had been almost 3 hours since we entered. We spent our time here talking to the person in charge to know more about LAMO, watched a documentary, read a few articles from the library, explored the galleries and got to know more about Ladakh through LAMO.

Leh Palace, below, as seen from LAMO entrance is only a few flight of stairs up from LAMO. There is a ticket counter outside as soon as you enter the palace complex. Once you have got your tickets, walk right through the stairs and enter the main door. The time we had been there, renovation was undergoing and the place was filled with workers who just went on about their work unmindful of the tourists. We walked through the series of rooms and reached the roof top for a good view of the Leh town below. What an amazing view it was; blue sky with sparse white clouds, barren mountains housing brown colored houses that completely blend in with the environment and on the right side green trees growing tall giving a green landscape to the town. 

Hunger brought us down from the palace. We did find a small eatery outside the Leh palace towards the parking area. After relishing rice and lentils, we sat down, soaking in the afternoon warm sun and the serene beauty of Leh. The restaurant's shaded roof offered an unobstructed view and their food was good both in quantity and quality.

Having seated there for more than an hour, we decided to hike up to Tsemo Castle. Apparently, its the tallest point in the center of Leh that would provide for a stunning view of the valley, shanti stupa, Leh palace and the taller mountain ranges around Leh. Given our adventure spirits, we decided to ditch the regular zigzag route that monks and locals took to go up the mountain and took on the lesser traversed steeper one. We were hiking up the rocky patches of the mountain and as we were half way up, the hike got tougher. Not wearing the right shoes only added on to the troubles. The path below seemed very slippery and it sure was scary for me to climb down. So I pushed myself only upwards never looking back or below. My husband was leading the hike and at one point he suggested we climb down, as he couldn't see any way up. My heart sank and as I took a few steps down it only caused slippages and that scared me a lot. I lost my nerve and told him "Either you find a way to go up or call for help, for I cannot climb down this slippery path". He sat down next to me and gave me confidence that he is there right next to me and would help me down. I just wouldn't listen for I wasn't confident of the climb down. It most certainly wasn't pleasant but I just couldn't take a step downward. That day I had faced my fears so closely that I came to know of my hidden side. This is why travel inspires me, I knew I was scared to climb down but at the same time, I wasn't scared to go up. It is not the fear of heights but its the fear of fall and hurt that was my limitation. I made a mental note to work on this in future so I overcome it. 

It would have been at least five to ten minutes of us being seated half way up a mountain in the afternoon sun before we saw a fellow traveler climb up the mountain. I could tell from a distance that he is a mountaineer. He walked up to us, mentioned it is because of us, he decided to climb the hill through this way. He went up and then started walking downhill, so he could go get his partner to climb up along with him. This gave me confidence and I began to take the lead this time trying to find our way up the hill. You see, I still wasn't confident of climbing down but I could find my way up. Soon we were near the prayer flags atop the hill. Prayers flags fluttering in the wind is the only sound you hear. There is so much peace and calm that you could hear your own heart beat. Take a view of the Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa through the fluttering prayer flags. From here it was a short descent across a narrow path to the other hill where the Tsemo castle is located. This seemed easy and we did it in no time. 

Once up at Tsemo, you get 360 degree view which doesn't fail to enchant you. The castle itself is completely in ruins and has no attractions but the hike itself and the panoramic views from above makes it memorable. Had I not done this, how else would I have come face to face with my fears and limitations, how would I have found confidence to move on. Travelling certainly brings one closer to understanding self and expands horizons in ways you would have never thought. We sat in silence enjoying the sunset. As the high mountains cast shadows with the sun's rays lighting up just the mountain peaks, the Leh palace began glowing while the rest of the mountain was getting darker. It was a similar story being painted on Shanti Stupa as well.

As it was getting dark, we decided to hike down the mountain and this time we took the route that monks and locals took. It certainly was steep but not as steep and slippery as the path we took on our way up. It certainly was a very special day for me for I got to know another side of me today. I couldn't have asked for anything more beautiful than how the day went.

Some useful tips:

1. If you are not a regular hiker, don't go hiking alone. Do it groups or at least with one other person in sight.

2. Wear appropriate shoes and clothes while you hiking. The mountains in Leh are not the regular ones you hike. They are made of mud and stones and can become very slippery

3. Beware of stray dogs. Carry a stick if possible to shoo them away.

4. Carry water and torch lights with you on your hike.

5. Stop and enjoy the vista once you have reached the top.