Jammu & Kashmir – As we saw it - Day 11 - Pangong Tso –Sakti - Leh

Sun was out somewhere beyond the mountains

At 4 am we were up and out of our cozy beds. Braving the cold winds, we started moving up a hillock right next to our guest house, to get a better view of the sun rise. Well, it was a little bit of a disappointment as there were clouds and the sun could be seen only when it came above the low hung clouds. Yet, the best part was that the first rays of Sun started illuminating these clouds creating mesmerizing paintings on the sky. 

Lake being lighted up with the first rays of the Sun

Finally we could see the Sun but it was so bright that we had to squint our eyes

At dawn around 6 am

In the day light at 8 am

As we were driving alongside the lake 

We drove further ahead alongside the lake till Man and Merak villages and I must admit that this journey was truly enchanting. The shades of blue varies according to the sunlight received and so in our journey to and back from these villages, we had seen several shades of blue and green against the brown barren mountains.

Shades of blue created by the sunlight and clouds, truly fascinating

Same view as above but a different shade altogether in a few minutes

You could spend hours here and still its beauty would continue to captivate you. Its a must visit place and worth spending at least a few hours by the lake. Soak yourself in its beauty.

It truly looked like an ocean with the small waves 

Clouds playing hide and seek

Its not just the waters, the mountains too have a dramatic effect from the clouds playing hide and seek,

Water changing its color depending on the clouds and sun

We parked our vehicle and went in closer. The crystal clear waters of this majestic lake bound us in a spell. There were a few migratory birds around the lake making it even more beautiful.

Snow capped mountains and the colorless water owing to cloud effect

Oh how many shades will you take but whichever it is you are still beautiful

Time flies when you are in love, be it with a person, book or a place. We didn’t realize the amount of time we spent gazing at the lake. It was so serene and tranquil, that you could easily slip into a trance with no effort.




An interesting info about this lake; China occupies two thirds of this lake while India has one third of it. The water is salty leading to various theories including the one that this lake was once a mighty ocean that was reduced to a lake when the earth plates collided.



The only disturbing thing I found in my journey here is the amount of dirt and garbage littered by tourists. I wish each one of us would be more responsible in protecting this fragile ecosystem. These amazing places are for everyone to admire so let’s preserve its beauty like the locals do.

Our growling tummies and the increased number of tourists to the lake was a clear indication that we had to head back. Bidding adieu to the lake, we moved towards our guest house. It was certainly time for an early lunch but nevertheless we enjoyed rotis (Indian flat breads) and vegetables made by a local woman. She lives in a nearby remote village and has her food stall facing the lake during the tourist season. Though there aren’t a lot of options in her menu, the food is definitely more than what you can wish for, at such remote places. The kindness I found in her is beyond compare.

Near Chang La

On our return journey, we crossed Lukung, Tangste, Durbuk and headed towards the famous Chang La pass. To our surprise our friend, took us downhill through a different route just as we crossed the pass. He didn’t mention where we were headed to as he had planned it as a surprise for us. He was taking us to his village which is around Sakti. The steep descent was for sure scary but his expert driving skills ensured our safety. There was a drastic change of scenery in the valley below. This village was so beautiful, like the one you see in a postcard. Its green fields, cattle and the tiny stream were so pristine, that I couldn’t believe its for real. We crossed the stream and yes I had to dip my feet in it. How could I miss the water running through your feet experience?

Village near Sakti

He led us to his house through a small fence. His folks were happy to receive us and quickly got into making sattu for us. It is their staple food, both delicious and healthy. We were seated in their living room while his mom and sister were preparing a drink for us. I moved around and ended up in his backyard. It was a beautiful kitchen garden. There were a lot of flowering plants and vegetables. I found a few friends in their pets and truly we couldn’t have asked for anything more than this pure love from this entire family. After spending a good amount of time, we said our goodbyes and proceeded towards Leh.

Ingenious idea of using tin cans as protection for the plants from the cattle

On our exit from this village, I could see a lot of trees being grown in the open barren land. These were protected from the grazing cattle by the tin cans. It’s a true wealth out of waste idea used for a good purpose. 

Shanti Stupa in the evening

We didn’t have much time left in our hands to visit either Hemis or Thicksey, so we headed directly to Leh. Once we reached Leh, we decided to visit Shantistupa, as we wanted to be up there in the evening hours. There is something magical about being atop this stupa as the daylight fades away. All we could see from here is the lit city of Leh but they weren't brighter than the lights from the sky. Yes, the stars are seen so vividly in these mountains and it never fails to fascinate you. You need to be up here in the night and you will admit that it is enthralling. It has been an enchanting day with some memories that will run forever. Off to sleep now for another exciting day.

Some useful tips:

1. You could cover Hemis/Thicksey/Shey on your onward and return journey from Pangong Tso if its a two or three day trip. Do not try to cover these places in a one day journey to Pangong. 

2. If you are someone who loves being in a monastery then suggest you keep a separate day for it. Hemis monastery has a lot to offer for seekers.

3. Do carry chocolates and other small giveaways for the locals. The love and kindness showered on you is without any expectation in return.

Jammu & Kashmir – As we saw it - Day 10 - Leh –Shey -Pangong Tso

I know its been a few months since I updated this blog but I hope you will excuse me for the absence. There were a couple of medical and personal emergencies that needed to be attended to. All is well now and here I am with the next update.

Bus schedule at Leh bus stand

Yesterday we had made inquiries for a taxi to reach Pangong Tso. Though we prefer to travel by bus with the locals, we realized that couldn’t be our preferred mode of transport as the buses are infrequent (Saturday and Sunday returning next day) and on Wednesday’s they go only till Tangste, about 35 kms before the lake. We had arranged for a taxi with an early morning departure so we could visit a few places enroute.

Our first stop was at Shey Monastery and Palace complex. It is located on the left hand side of the Leh Manali road, about 15 kms from Leh. Parking is on the sides of this road. Shey monastery is built on a hillock that overlooks a lake below. As we were climbing up the rays of the morning sun were already on the lake creating golden shimmers in the water. Our taxi driver, a young fella in his early twenties who was mostly aloof started opening up to us and became our guide sharing details of this monastery cum palace complex. We were informed that the monastery is noted for its giant copper with gilded gold statue of a seated Shakyamuni Buddha and this statue is said to the second largest such statue in Ladakh. We entered the prayer hall and I must say it was a blissful experience. 

The 12m seated Sakhyamani buddha inside Shey Monastery

On our exit, we chatted with the residing monks to know about the rituals and festivals that happen here. Every year two key festivals one at the beginning of the sowing season and the other at the harvest season happens here. So if you are visiting here in July/August you should be able to witness one. We were also told that oracle readers visit this place and read out prophecies.

View from Shey Palace/Monastery

We ascended the hill behind the monastery to the palace which is mostly in ruins now. Once above, you can have a panoramic view of Stakna, Stok, Thiksey villages and also Leh. We decided to move on and descended through a different route viewing the rock carvings. Once down, we went to the lake and witnessed the passersby taking a peek into it, seeking blessings. 

Shey Palace complex

Given the morning hours, the village folk were about their chores and kids were on their way to school. There were a couple of schools located around Shey village. Four kilometers ahead lies Thicksey monastery but we had decided to see it on our return. 

Thicksey Monastery at a distance

So, on we proceeded towards Pangong Tso. Our first stop came in the way of breakfast at Karu. It’s almost a Y junction here and the road on the right leads to Hemis monastery while the one going straight takes you to Chang La pass and Pangong Tso.

The road till here is very nice but as we crossed the check post at Karu and proceeded further towards the pass, we had to brace ourselves, as we were up for a bumpy ride. Not only that, from a distance we were bewildered if we were also in the land of the legendary Zorro. Yes, see for yourself the Z shaped roads. 

Is it really the legendary Zorro?

This stretch is treacherous and one needs to be careful driving here. Chang La is the third highest pass in the world, the first being Khardung La. In the local language, “La” means pass. Soon, we were crossing this pass and heading towards a beautiful hamlet called Tangste. Our little friend who was driving us had by now become one amongst us and he was more than happy sharing details about this region. He had asked us to watch out for Marmots which are easily spotted in this side of Ladakh. He was right, we could see a few, closer to the road. A few meters walk from our vehicle we saw their tiny burrows into which they quickly disappeared. Our patient wait led them out and our friendly gestures got them closer to us. We had a great time watching these friendly animals.

As we moved on we could spot wild horses and cattle in the mushy waters. It was just us and them till where our eyes could see. The tall mountain ranges, clear and vast blue sky only added up to the already dramatic scene making us tinier than we have ever felt. 

Wild horses in the mush. Love the shades of blue, green and brow 

We continued driving ahead and unannounced at a turn I saw the majestic indigo blue of Pangong Tso. My utterance “there, there it is” broke the silence in our car and got us all excited. 

The first sighting of the lake, oh what a beauty it is

In less than 15 minutes we reached the lake and headed straight to it. The mesmerizing colors of the lake keep changing from aqua green to indigo blue. The colors depend on the sunlight received and we were thankful for a bright sunny day. It does get very windy and given the cold temperature, we couldn’t stay longer by the lake.

As we had decided to spend a night by the lake, we started exploring around Pangong Tso. There are a variety of accommodations available here starting from swanky swiss tents to home stays. We chose for ourselves a cozy room and spent a comfortable night.







Some useful tips:

1. Food and accommodation is not a problem here if you are visiting from May to mid October. 

2. Home stays, hotels and other accommodations are available to suit every type of budget.

3. There are no ATMs here so please withdraw money from Leh itself 

4. Please keep in mind to not feed marmots as they will then run short of food in the harsh winter months.